my mate with a merc 190 poped round the other day and mentioned a product called ZX1... its an oil addative which apparently improves the "slipperyness?" of the oil and gives extra lubrication?
have poped a little in the lotus... about 100ml, havent noticed a massive effect (not as much as my smart car which went from choppy to running as smooth as silk...)
anyone else used it?
Oz.
also: additives fuel/oil... discuss...
ZX1 anyone use it?
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ZX1 anyone use it?
Oran Maliphant
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- Lotus-e-Clan
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So which oil do you use?
If it's Mobil 1, castrol 10/60, valvoline racing, Millers synthetic 10/60, etc then surely there's no need for an additive?
Personally I don't use additives...they tend to get used when people suspect their engine has seen better days (I hope that's not your situation!). I've used Castrol 10/60 for the last 4 or 5 years and Mobil 1 before that. Just bought some more from Opie oils (as per recent thread) plus an OEM filter from SJS (£13!) to do an oil change this weekend. New spark plugs are going in too (the first new set in 4 years)!
Mind you I wouldn't doubt the extra lubrication you get from additives ...it's just the possibility of deposits/gumming and the like that I would fear...and those Nicosil liner stories have put the fear of God into me with regard to the wrong petrol type (I use Shell V power only) or deviating from the recommended fluids.
If it's Mobil 1, castrol 10/60, valvoline racing, Millers synthetic 10/60, etc then surely there's no need for an additive?
Personally I don't use additives...they tend to get used when people suspect their engine has seen better days (I hope that's not your situation!). I've used Castrol 10/60 for the last 4 or 5 years and Mobil 1 before that. Just bought some more from Opie oils (as per recent thread) plus an OEM filter from SJS (£13!) to do an oil change this weekend. New spark plugs are going in too (the first new set in 4 years)!
Mind you I wouldn't doubt the extra lubrication you get from additives ...it's just the possibility of deposits/gumming and the like that I would fear...and those Nicosil liner stories have put the fear of God into me with regard to the wrong petrol type (I use Shell V power only) or deviating from the recommended fluids.
Peter K
I put slick 50 in a Ford Cortina about 20 years ago! To my surprise, the tickover actually increased which implied less friction ... I doubt it "coated" the insides of the engine as advertised since Dupont struggled to make non-stick frying pans for years because the stuff wouldn't stick to metal, and that was without loads of oil around 
My Excel engine, box and diff are fine at 150k, with nothing more than regular oil changes with decent synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5/50, 15/50 or Castrol RS 10/60)... Given the way it's running, touching wood etc, I reckon it'll reach 200k without needing a rebuild.
My Excel engine, box and diff are fine at 150k, with nothing more than regular oil changes with decent synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5/50, 15/50 or Castrol RS 10/60)... Given the way it's running, touching wood etc, I reckon it'll reach 200k without needing a rebuild.
- Lotus-e-Clan
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So you don't need an additive thenSteve C wrote:I put slick 50 in a Ford Cortina about 20 years ago! To my surprise, the tickover actually increased which implied less friction ... I doubt it "coated" the insides of the engine as advertised since Dupont struggled to make non-stick frying pans for years because the stuff wouldn't stick to metal, and that was without loads of oil around
My Excel engine, box and diff are fine at 150k, with nothing more than regular oil changes with decent synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5/50, 15/50 or Castrol RS 10/60)... Given the way it's running, touching wood etc, I reckon it'll reach 200k without needing a rebuild.
Peter K
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i only try it cause i like to "rev" the engine rather than change gear, and its done 108,000...
also planning on doing more track days...
Oil i used is Mobil1 10w50? (will double check but im sure its 10w50 or 15w50)
is the castrol rs 10w60 much better?
at the moment the front crank is leaking oil at high rpm... got the replacement seal... garage is going to sort it when they sort the new windscreen wiper motor, reversing switch, and leaking exhaust gasket...
Oz.
also planning on doing more track days...
Oil i used is Mobil1 10w50? (will double check but im sure its 10w50 or 15w50)
is the castrol rs 10w60 much better?
at the moment the front crank is leaking oil at high rpm... got the replacement seal... garage is going to sort it when they sort the new windscreen wiper motor, reversing switch, and leaking exhaust gasket...
Oz.
Oran Maliphant
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Mercedes B250e “Tesla” 2015
MGF 1.8i Steptronic CVT 2001
Honda Civic Type R EP3 2004
Volvo V70 T5 2002
Lotus Excel 4.0l V8 1987 #2470
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Mercedes B250e “Tesla” 2015
MGF 1.8i Steptronic CVT 2001
Honda Civic Type R EP3 2004
Volvo V70 T5 2002
Lotus Excel 4.0l V8 1987 #2470
- Lotus-e-Clan
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A main advantage with the 10/60 is less oil consumption as the thicker oil stays the right side of the rings at high temperatures.Ozzy_UK wrote:
Oil i used is Mobil1 10w50? (will double check but im sure its 10w50 or 15w50)
is the castrol rs 10w60 much better?
Oz.
Oil pressure is more robust at high temperatures too...there is a significant difference here between the 10/60 and the Mobil 1 15/50. Also at high rpm the oil film is squeezed out of bearings and will accelerate wear, so 10/60 will help with a more robust film thickness in a fully warmed engine.
A trick to overcome oil film reduction in the high revving Imp engine (9-10k rpm) is to fit an adjustable oil pressure relief valve and change the relief setting from the std 55psi to 70spi...this is probably not necessary in a 912 engine that only revs to 7k rpm and has decent oil pressure relief as standard.
Peter K
I can't say I have a strong preference for either ... I normally buy whichever (of the Mobil 1 15w/50 or Castrol RS10w/60) is the best deal at the time. I have used Mobil 1 5W/50 because you could get it in french hypermarkets for £18 / 4 litres. I tended to use this for winter oil (although not religiously) since the lower cold rating meant the oil flowed better from a cold start.Ozzy_UK wrote:Oil i used is Mobil1 10w50? (will double check but im sure its 10w50 or 15w50)
is the castrol rs 10w60 much better?
Oz.
Probably more important than the difference between (quality synthetic) oils is babying the car when it's cold .. let the water AND oil warm up thoroughly before watching that needle run around to number 7
Front seal huh ... ideal time for a cambelt change since it's all apart!