Front seat removal

[Will49]

The nuts on the bolts underneath are so rusty they are impossible to get a grip on them to undo so how to remove them?
As they are in a recess its very difficult to get a discs cutter to them so drill the bolt heads from inside the car?
How did you do it?

[dancroft1984]

The bolt heads are in the seat rails inside so getting a cutter on them will be nigh-on impossible. I think it's worth persevering with undoing underneath, even if you have to weld a nut onto it. Have you got something holding the bolt on the inside? You don't want the whole lot spinning.

[rbgosling]

That's a bugger. Particularly since it is near impossible to rotate the bolts from above (assuming you have the original hex head bolts). Sometimes you can get a workable grip on the nut using mole grips, or by grinding a new pair of flats on the nut that you can then put an open-ended spanner on, but it depends if the nut has a least some willingness to let go of the bolt. Can you get a nut splitter in there, as another option?

When replacing them, use stainless steel - also use socket-head bolts (for allen key), it is SO much easier to hold these in place when tightening compared to the hex-head bolts that are usually in there.

[Will49]

Thanks for the ideas.
Just bought S/S bolts, washers and nuts and a bolt splitter as suggested so will try that first.
Doing this sort of thing on axle stands is murder

[MetBlue]

I'd take a disc cutter to the nuts underneath the car. There's a good size washer between the nut and the fibre glass floor (which will protect the fibre glass) and with 8 to go at, should be able to avoid too much heat build up. They're only M8 and need replacing with new anyway.
I made a type of tee bolt up for mine, which makes refitting a much easier one man job. I'll find piccies later.
Tony

[pistolpete]

I used a multi cutter from under the car to cut the bolts .it is a real pain

[ianhateswork]

I had the same problem, a standard socket just span on the nuts. I used an impact style six sided socket , I got away with using 13mm but
if yours are really bad, try a half inch, and gently does it.
mole grips to stop the bolt turning , on the front ones, i cant remember about the rear ones.
good luck
ian

[Tanz]

These sometimes work for me on rusted nuts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296380187975 ... BMjqaiv_Vj

[TonyL]

I cleaned the underside with a wire brush then sprayed with Halfords Release Spray for several days running before having a go. I used a spanner on top, which was held in place by the seat runners, & I went underneath with a socket & long bar, & was relieved when it all came apart without too much of a struggle.

[Tanz]

I think the nuts originally had black goo or underseal on them to stop them rusting or at least mine did - maybe a previous owner?

[Lotus-e-Clan]

18v impact driver with a six sided socket did mine. If you've rounded the nut then invest in a set of IRWIN worn nut removing sockets.

You can splay the runner and get a 1/4 drive socket on the bolt head. Just squish the runner back after re installing.

[Will49]

Thank you all for that lot of suggestions one of them will work

[DavidOliver]

I have used a high speed Dremel small radial cutter to cut nuts apart, in many cases including seat bolts.
The 30mm diameter disc gets into most nooks and crannies and heat production is low so no fire or fibreglass damage is experienced.
Certainly worth stainless nuts and bolts on replacement.

Dave the cog.

[MetBlue]

I made a type of tee bolt up for mine, which makes refitting a much easier one man job. I'll find piccies later.

Took a while, but found the picture.



A low profile cap screw, tapped and fixed into a steel plate that won't turn in the seat channel. Avoids the need to have Ape length arms needed when working both sides on your own.

Tony

[Will49]

I can't get the seat forward enough to get at the rear seat runner bolts so i can hold them in place. Fronts are OK
I guess I am missing a trick here?