Ignition barrel removal

[Alan_M]

The Excel seems to be throwing a wobbly at the moment - May be getting jealous as been using the Elan more

Anyway recently went to start it and started straight away, ran it up to temp and turned it off. An hour later went to start again and nothing except a relay clicking under the dash and ran out of time to check for issue.

Following week found starter ok and able to start car with ignition turned on and jumping lead to starter solenoid. Again ran her up to temp and turned off. Later went to start her again and now key won’t turn in the ignition barrel!! I’ve puffed some graphite powder into lock and tried to work key - nothing. Also tried some release oil - still nothing.

So how do I remove the barrel and anyone had a similar problem? I already have a new barrel ordered.

I did take the covers off the column and have a theory on how to remove, but that would involve having to be able to turn the key and then pushing a pin in on the side of the barrel, but can’t test this as key doesn’t turn.

[bash]

Its a while ago but I had this problem once and it was the electrical part of the barrel which was easy to get off the end of the lock. I can't remember tho if the key had to be in the lock, I suspect not. Alternativly a 15 year old spotty scrote with a piece of scaffolding tube might assist.

Bash

[Alan_M]

Thanks Bash

Had an hour this morning to have a look. Removed the electrical section. No joy key still not turning. Kept fiddling with key for about 10minutes and it decided to cooperate and turn, so lock barrel now removed. Key removed and and tried again and won’t turn in the barrel, so guess either barrel or both my keys are worn, although the keys work fine in door and boot locks.

The good news is I have a brand new ignition barrel arriving tomorrow (along with genuine brand new rear bumper, rear springs, mirror switch and window felt )

[Alan_M]

All fixed and starting off the key again. Found the start relay had failed causing the initial problem and ignition barrel just happened to throw a wobbly at the same time. While checking the connection at the starter the oil pressure wire fell apart where repaired by previous owner with simple crimp connector. What do they say about things coming in threes?

The handy work of a previous owner had made it a little harder to work out it was the start relay. I was working off the relay diagram in the service manual and changed the relay that should have been the starter relay only to eventually work out that the PO had moved the fan relay so their positions were reversed

I’ve managed to take the old barrel apart and can see some wear from where the pins haven’t been fully retracted by the keys.

I’d like to put the original lock barrel back in so 1 key will still do everything. My first thought is to have a key made to original specifications rather than copied off of my worn ones. From research it appears that there is a code on one of the door lock barrels that can be used to order a key from Toyota. On an American Celica supra forum they say it’s on the passenger door, so I assume the driver’s door on ours? Or are the locks swapped around on our cars?

[AndyC]

Correct, our locks are swapped but, don't forget so are the driver's position, so whilst their Left Hand door lock is our RH door lock, their driver's door is our passenger door.

[Authority924]

I think a locksmith could at least have a look. My logic is simple, if you have a problem with a lock or with a key, call a cheap locksmith in london