Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

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sharrar
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Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by sharrar »

Hi,
For a compression test I understand the fuel pump should be disabled (along with ignition). Could someone guide me on disabling the pump? Presume there is a fuse / relay in the boor. Any pictures to help me identify it! I've yet to delve into this area :-), hopefully it's relatively easy

Thanks

sharrar
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Posts: 134
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Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by sharrar »

Hi,
For a compression test I understand the fuel pump should be disabled (along with ignition). Could someone guide me on disabling the pump? Presume there is a fuse / relay in the boot. Any pictures to help me identify it! I've yet to delve into this area :-), hopefully it's relatively straightforward

Thanks

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Lotus-e-Clan
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Re: Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by Lotus-e-Clan »

No need to disable the fuel pump. The float valves will resist fuel pressure after the float chambers are full.

You remove ALL of the plugs before compression testing anyway so no need to disable the ignition either IMHO. But if you must, then just remove the positive white ignition wire from the coil.
Peter K

sharrar
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Re: Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by sharrar »

Thanks for the fast response Peter - that's good to know.

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Hawaiis0
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Re: Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by Hawaiis0 »

Not sure on your yr but The feed to the pump is from Splice A fuse 13 & 14 on 86 models.

There are 2 spade connections on my pump which are also easily pulled.

edit - however you are wanting to crank so best pull the spades otherwise you wont
Nothing is fool proof. Fools are clever!

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Alan_M
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Re: Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by Alan_M »

It also should be done with the engine hot, unless the engine doesn't start and you are fault finding, but must have throttle wide open.

sharrar
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Re: Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by sharrar »

Thanks Alan, I see some people attach a battery charger to stop the battery go flat - would you recommend?

The engine starts - but can you confirm throttle wide open - do I need to adjust the cable itself ?

Thanks

Esprit2
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Re: Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by Esprit2 »

sharrar wrote:Hi,
For a compression test I understand the fuel pump should be disabled (along with ignition). Could someone guide me on disabling the pump? Presume there is a fuse / relay in the boot. Any pictures to help me identify it! I've yet to delve into this area :-), hopefully it's relatively straightforward
Sharrar,
It's not necessary to disconnect the fuel pump. That would work with fuel injection, but carbs already have enough fuel in the float bowls to last the duration of the compression test. The only way to make disconnecting the fuel pump worth your effort would be to also remove the carb's top covers and suck all the petrol out of the float chambers. 'Nobody' bothers with that, which renders disconnecting the fuel pump a waste of time.

Disconnecting the power feed wire from the ignition coil's (+) terminal would be wise. Cranking the engine with the spark plugs remove will result in some air/ fuel mixture being pumped out of the spark plug holes. If there are any spark plugs laying about in the vicinity, merrily sparking away, there could be considerable risk of fire. Been there, done that, and it was exciting. I recommend disconnecting the coil.

Regards,
Tim Engel

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Re: Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by Esprit2 »

sharrar wrote:Thanks Alan, I see some people attach a battery charger to stop the battery go flat - would you recommend?
Sharrar,
The compression test doesn't take long, so a strong battery with a full charge should have no problem out-lasting the test's duration. If the battery is weak, then use jumper cables to hook up the battery of a running car to bolster the test subject's battery.

Perform the test with...
1) The engine hot, at full operating temperature. A cold test will result in low readings.

2) Hold the throttle WIDE OPEN while cranking the engine over.

3) Crank the engine at 200 rpm or better. That requires a strong battery with a full charge. If the car's battery isn't up to the task, then use jumper cables as mentioned above. No, you don't have to monitor the tach (can't, the coil is disconnected). The engine is clearly cranking faster than normal with the spark plugs removed. If it's not, then get out the jumper cables and give it some help.

The test results should be...
907LC (8.4:1 cr) = 10.2 - 11.6 bar (150 - 170 psi)
907HC (9.5:1 cr) = 11.2 - 12.6 bar (165 - 185 psi)
912LC (9.44:1 cr) = 11.2 - 12.6 bar (165 - 185 psi)
912HC (10.9:1 cr) = 11.5 - 13.0 bar (170 - 190 psi)
910LC (7.5:1 cr) = 8.8 bar (130 psi min)
910HC (8.0:1 cr) = 9.5 bar (140 psi min)
910LC/ HC (8.5:1 cr) = 10.5 - 11.8 bar (152 - 172 psi) with JE Forged 8.5:1 Pistons.

For the 907LC, Jensen-Healey recommended performing the compression test on a cold engine. In that case, the results should be...

907LC (8.4:1 cr) = 7.58 - 8.96 bar (110 - 130 psi) COLD.

Only Jensen-Healey specified a cold test, and it's best to perform the test hot if you have the choice. But if the engine won't start and your forced into a cold compression test, then 907LC owners at least have an official results spec to reference. I don't have 'factory' cold compression specs for the Lotus engines.

Note: The current Goetze composite head gasket was introduced in Jan 1993. It's compressed thickness is 0.5mm (0.020") thicker than the old/ original gasket. That raises the cylinder head higher off the block deck by that amount, increasing the combustion chamber volume, and lowering the compression ratio by about half a point (9.5:1 becomes 9.0:1).

For all engines built prior to Jan 1993, but now assembled with a Goetze composite gasket, the resulting compression is down from original spec by half a point.

For engines built from Jan 1993 onward, Lotus machined the block deck lower by 0.5mm (0.020") to compensate for the thicker gasket. For those engines, the compression ratio remains per original factory spec with the new Goetze composite gasket.

If you're doing a comprehensive engine rebuild, including some machine work, you could also have the block decked 0.5mm (0.020"), and liners set deeper into the block by the same amount (ie, preserve the original 'nip' spec).

Anything that lowers the head (reduced center distance between the cams and crank) will slightly retard the cam timing. That includes milling a warped head to flatten the bottom, or decking the block.

Anything that raises the head (thicker head gasket) will slightly advance the cam timing.

With stock pulleys, there's nothing you can do about it. But if your cam pulleys used to have perfect dot alignment before any of the above changes, you'll notice a slight timing dot mis-alignment afterwards. It's small, live with it.

Regards,
Tim Engel

sharrar
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Re: Fuel pump relay or fuse to disable?

Post by sharrar »

Thanks Tim for the great detail, that's a big help. cheers, Richard

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