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Window lift channel - replacement
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 14:34
by GARY1958
Having searched the archives i came across some good pictures:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~robert. ... llery.html
First numpty question, if i remove the 4 screws on the door card does it just lift out?
In the 3rd picture down, the one of the inside of the door where is the lift channel? Is it further up? Using the same link above I'm trying to change the metal part attached to the glass in the bottom right of picture 4.
Thanks,
Gary
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 16:13
by Skeggy
Hi Gary,
From memory the door card is held on with a screw in the handle recess and several around the edges. Then just lift up slightly.
The window channel is higher up in pic 3. I'd guess that you'll have to remove the motor and slide the arm from out of the channel.
Whilst you are in the door have a check of the door beam they are known to rust badly.
Steve
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 23:06
by robertverhey
'Tis my baby. The lower bolt of the window channel can just be seen to the left of the toothed semicircle.
Door card removal? five screws. One at each end, two underneath plus the door puller surround. Or if you wait long enough they'll all rattle out.
Make sure to disconnect the battery or turn off the interior light if leaving these cards off for any length time, as they need to be there to open the door light switch. Learned this the hard way.
Robert
Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 08:15
by GARY1958
Ok, door card came off no problem. Window channel is well rusty and the window lift has come out of the channel and is stuck near the top of the door. Looks like I will have to take the window motor out. As for taking off the old channel looks like sikaflex type compound on bottom of glass? Is it a good idea to try and take the whole window frame out? Door beam looks ok ?
Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 09:19
by robertverhey
My lower channel was very rusted too, but not enough to let go of the glass. Yes sikaflex I think. I just cleaned it up best I could, soaked in anti-rust and painted over, flakes and all..
Re dismantling, the worst rust on mine was in the most inaccessible places, so there's some merit in stripping the whole shebang down. It's not a huge job. Take note of any shims and spacers behind the frame mounts, they need to go back in the same places.
Be mindful of the hidden screw under the window weatherstrip near the vertical pillar
These web pages might help
http://www.tegaky.org/~car/ExcelMainten ... index.html
http://www.tegaky.org/~car/ExcelMainten ... index.html
http://www.tegaky.org/~car/ExcelMainten ... index.html
Robert
Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 09:36
by GARY1958
Hello Robert,
Thanks for the tips and great photos. Very helpful. My motors are made by Delco (1988 car, built in '87) Lots of the trim has 2436 on it so I guess this is the relevant number- as in VIN ends HDD12436.
Gary
Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 22:26
by Rojo
as in VIN ends HDD12436.Quote
Was that a typo? or is it HHD12436!
Regards,Roger