Leaky door seal fix

[DavidOliver]

To support the right angle I made up a copper pipe L shape 15mm each side and glued into the D rubber. It still allows the door to close and compress slightly the D rubber and give that more support to avoid D rubber separation.
An alternative is clear plastic pipe instead of copper.

Dave the cog.

[TrevorK]

I discovered on my last drive out (my first since adjusting the driver's door window frame to put more pressure on the seal) that, while the wind noise was reduced, I still had a cold, right hand. A bit of groping around as I was driving revealed that there was a draught from the bottom of the door.

Would running a similar D-section seal along the inside edge of the door stop this? Did you run the seal all around the door, Kev?

[Pete Boole]

How does the door skin itself fit in relation to the main body of the car - could you adjust it to fit closer to the seal?

Pete

[KevW]

I discovered on my last drive out (my first since adjusting the driver's door window frame to put more pressure on the seal) that, while the wind noise was reduced, I still had a cold, right hand. A bit of groping around as I was driving revealed that there was a draught from the bottom of the door.

Would running a similar D-section seal along the inside edge of the door stop this? Did you run the seal all around the door, Kev?

I ran the d section trim all the way around the door, including the window frame, so that it butted up against the original factory fitted seal on the door aperture Trevor. If you car is like mine you will clearly see where you need to stick it as the door aperture seal leaves a mark on the black paintwork. Have you had the door card off to check all of the door lock and electric window mechanism inspection panels are fitted properly? If not that would certainly create a draught

[tonypoll]

You can check the tightness of the fit of the seal by attempting to slide a strong piece of very flexible plastic or paper (a £10 note works!) across the seal.
You can do this through an open window. Open the door and place the paper across the seal. Close the door and with one hand inside and the other outside try to slide the paper all the way round. You quickly discover where the seal is good and bad, and can then adjust the hang of the door accordingly. The adjustment can take quite a time!

[TrevorK]

Have you had the door card off to check all of the door lock and electric window mechanism inspection panels are fitted properly? If not that would certainly create a draught

Good point! There is no panel over the central-locking actuator nor over the area where the door lock is. Time to call LotusBits, by the sound of it. Or get the duct tape and polythene sheet out.

[TrevorK]

You can check the tightness of the fit of the seal by attempting to slide a strong piece of very flexible plastic or paper (a £10 note works!) across the seal.
You can do this through an open window. Open the door and place the paper across the seal. Close the door and with one hand inside and the other outside try to slide the paper all the way round. You quickly discover where the seal is good and bad, and can then adjust the hang of the door accordingly. The adjustment can take quite a time!

I could try that. The seal is fairly flat along the bottom so I assumed it wasn't hard against the door but I don't know that's true.

How does one adjust the door to get the bottom further in? I don't want to mover the lock stricker inboard more as the door sites nice and level with the body (on that side at least).

[richardw]

A fix I have heard of is to insert neoprene tubing into the hollow section of the door seal. This allows the seal to fit more tightly against the door.

Cheers, Richard

[Pete Boole]

How does one adjust the door to get the bottom further in?

With the door card off you will see at the front of the door skin - looking inside the door cavity - that it is retained by two M6 bolts that fasten through a bracket that is fastened to the door beam. These allow adjustment of the front of the door both in and out and up and down. The rear of the door skin bolts directly to the door beam end plate and the window frame. These allow adjustment of the rear of the door - holes sometimes need making bigger to facilitate this. If you do this be super-careful - it can take hours to get it right but it is the only way to get the door skin to fit properly if the window frame itself is already well aligned on the door beam/body shell.

Pete

[TrevorK]

Thanks, Pete. I will take a look at that and see what I can do.

[TrevorK]

Tried pulling a piece of paper through the gap with the door closed but it was tight so I think there is enough pressure on the seal, pending a check on the seal at the back of the door.

The door trim panel fits pretty tight to the door so how does it cause such a draught if a cover is missing?

[CHRISYD]

I think wind can enter the door through the big drain holes on the bottom of the door or along the seal between window glass and top of door skin. it then might enter car through door opening lever area or speaker area.

[KevW]

I found some spare lengths of "D" seal in my garage last week and decided to stick it on the leading edge of both B pillars (the black plastic finisher with the Lotus badge). This fills the gap between the rear edge of the door window frame and the B pillar and has made a big difference to wind noise at high speed. Don't know why I didn't do this earlier.

[Pete Boole]

Sounds great Kev. What does it look like? Fancy posting a photo?

Pete

[KevW]

It's pretty unobtrusive Pete. I'm surprised Lotus didn't do something similar as OE

I have taken a picture but having downloaded it onto my Photobucket page suddenly I'm unable to post links onto here. Photobucket management really have taken a good site and well and truly knackered it.