Headlamp pods not retracting

[gsharp]

So my introduction to Excel wiring has started with the headlamp pod wiring. The pods won't retract when I turn the lights off. I've replaced the headlamp retract relay and headlamp retract control relay but still the pods won't go down. If I earth the OW wire at the control relay the pods go down, so there isn't a problem with the motors. When I turn the lights back on the pods pop up but don't go back down when the lights are turned off. From reading the service notes if both the OB abd OS wires are not earthed the pods should go down. I've made sure these wires aren't earthed but the pods won't go down.

I'm not sure what to check next.... Have I got two dead control modules? have I misunderstood the wiring diagram? Are any of the switches known problems?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

[AndyC]

This may seem an insulting question, it's not meant in that way so here goes.
Do you men the pods don't go down when you've turned the switch from headlights, through sidelights to no lights?
OR
Do you men they will not go down when you've turned the switch the extra click to move away from the valet setting?


Some people don't realise it keeps the pods up for cleaning.

[amarshall]

Just to clarify AndyC's post -the headlamp switch clicks round as follows :

From off (ridge on knob aligned with ridge on column) :

first click, no apparent activity BUT pods will stay up if you flash the headlamps (this is the cleaning/valet setting)
2nd click - sidelights + pods should raise and lamps come on dimly if dim-dip is fitted
3rd click - pods raise + lamps should be on

From on (3rd click)

back to 2nd - sidelights + pods stay up and lights come on dimly (if dim-dip is fitted)
back to 1st - no activity (pods stay up)
back to start - pods lower

[JimmyC379]

I had a similar problem but mine is an 1984 with Lucus motors and yours would have Toyota ones. Anyway the way the work I'm sure is not to different. Try pulling you headlamp out, stick your hand and a lamp down the light hole, you should see some linkage for the light motor, play around with the rods adjustment and that may be all it needs to work properly (also make sure you disconnect the lights power before you do this or your hand may be in pain). Please note though if your headlamp motor is working and is sticking for long periods the motor is likely to be working so leaving it like this for a long period will burn out the motor - it will heat up and the motor magnets glue will fail (that's what happened to me). Also, under the car is a manual override for the headlamp motor so when it is jammed try spinning the override and if the light goes up or down it is deferentially an adjustment problem.

Cheers,

Jimmy

[amarshall]

There's also a very good guide to motor refurbishment in the Technical Articles section.

[gsharp]

Thanks for the comments

AndyC / amarshall, I understand the cleaning/valet setting. The problem is when the switch is all the way back (1 click back from the cleaning/valet setting) the pods still don't go down.

JimmyC379, The motors appear to be working fine. If I earth the pods down (OW) wire at the retract control relay the pods retract correctly.

Looking at the wiring diagram again the options seem to be:

• Headlamp motors (ruled out as the pods work when the retract control relay wires are earthed appropriately)

• Micro-switches for up and down (ruled out as the pods work when the retract control relay wires are earthed appropriately)

• Headlamp retract relay (ruled out as the pods work when the retract control relay wires are earthed appropriately)

• Headlamp retract control relay (possible but the pods work when the retract control relay wires are earthed appropriately)

• Fuse 25 (ok as I get 12V at the retract control relay)

• Fuse 26 (ok as I get 12V at the retract relay)

• Headlamp relay (?)

• Column switch (?)

Sorry to ask what could be a stupid question (will probably slap my head after reading the answer) but the wiring diagram shows two column switches, one with OFF-UP-TAIL-HEAD settings (I assume this is the rotary switch on the stalk) and the other with HF-HL-HU settings. What's the switch with HF-HL-HU settings?

[BillB]

That will be the headlamp full/dip/flash switch.

Bill

[amarshall]

What's the switch with HF-HL-HU settings?

Headlamp Flash, Low, fUll

Aside from the possibility of a fault on the column switch itself (which seems unlikely), do you have a dim-dip module fitted ? There could be a fault in there (or the wiring leading to it) which is keeping the pods up.

Also - you say you've checked and replaced the relays, but have you double checked the types of relay fitted ?

[Richy B]

Funney thing happened tonight, I turned off my lights and the same thing happened, tried all kinds of combinations expecting the pods to return to the closed position, but remained open.
Left the car for about 15 minutes to return with torch and handbook ready to have a look at relays in LH post, started the car, flicked the lights of then off and the pods returned to the closed position, can only presume its a glitch

[amarshall]

Hmph! Mine's just started doing something similar - pods come up on demand, but as long as the ignition is on they stay up. Must be dim-dip related in my case. Either "carbonisation" of relays or failure of the module.

If I'm up early enough tomorrow, Stevenage will be treated to an ad-hoc demo. of how to replace bits of Excel in a hotel car park. (I have 2 spare dim-dip modules in the boot along with the relay collections for some reason )

[amarshall]

Weird - mine healed itself too. Pods and dim-dip were fine by the time I got home yesterday. Maybe's it's something to do with driving south instead of north ?

(ley lines, magnetic fields, alligators in the sewers, big cats on the moors, wooooooo! )

[KevW]

I had a similar problem with my pods in 2010 Angus. It was associated with the headlamp retract relay which was making some very strange noises. I did eventually cure it after fitting a couple of used relays supplied by Lotusbits but to be honest I'm still not 100% sure where the actual fault lay. I suspect now that it might have been a dodgy earth somewhere which caused the relays to misbehave.

The problem never returned so I've just let sleeping dogs lie !