Hi all
At long last a chance to sort the front end and get rid of that shimmy under brakes.
Whipped the A/R bar off today (ha, makes it sound easy, what a bugger of a job). Sure enough, there's a heap of fore-aft play in the bushes where the A/R bar goes through the track control arm. Not surprising after 22 years.
There's been a bit of discussion on this forum and the other over the years, but thought I'd pose a couple of queries in case anyone has more up to date info:
1. Anyone sourced some good poly bushes lately? I'm finding the 32 pounds (each!) from SJ and Christopher Neil a bit hard to come to terms with!
2. Any special tricks for getting the originals out without destroying? I want to use them as samples at my local Pedders shop.
3. If I end up replacing with the one-piece original style rubbers, what's the trick to getting them in? Swarfega and a vice seems to be the most successful I've read about. Any others?
4. Finally, the workshop manual (section CA page 5) describes two types of bushes, but helpfully (NOT) doesn't say which models have which. Mine's an '87 Excel. Top of page or bottom of page? Which type is supplied by SJ and CN?
Thanks!
Robert
Anti-roll bar bushes
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Anti-roll bar bushes
Robert Glacier Blue '87 SE
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Re: Anti-roll bar bushes
I seem to remember reading somewhere that its recomended you use rubber bushs on the A/R bar if you are going to poly bush the rest. Cant remember why perhaps someone else can add to this.
1986 Excel SE Essex Blue.
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Re: Anti-roll bar bushes
Yep, the poly bushes are so stiff the tend to cause under-steer, so rubber for ARB, metalastic for top wishbones and poly on the others is what I was recommended to do.
Re: Anti-roll bar bushes
Hi Rob,
I've just replaced the arb to chassis bushes with poly ones from SJ.
Did the at the same time as the dampers, four gaz adjustables.
Got to say I'm very happy with the results.
I've still got the rubber bushes on the end of the arb, where they meet the lower wishbone.
I've just replaced the arb to chassis bushes with poly ones from SJ.
Did the at the same time as the dampers, four gaz adjustables.
Got to say I'm very happy with the results.
I've still got the rubber bushes on the end of the arb, where they meet the lower wishbone.
A
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Re: Anti-roll bar bushes
Thanks for this, looks like the consensus is rubber for the ARB to TCA....better bite the bullet and put that order in at SJ!
Okay, so for those who have been there, done that, what's the magic way to insert these....can it be done "on vehicle", or is it best to take the TCAs right off?
I suspect that like most Excel jobs, the task (and the parts list) just gets bigger and bigger...
Robert
Okay, so for those who have been there, done that, what's the magic way to insert these....can it be done "on vehicle", or is it best to take the TCAs right off?
I suspect that like most Excel jobs, the task (and the parts list) just gets bigger and bigger...
Robert
Robert Glacier Blue '87 SE
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Re: Anti-roll bar bushes
Hi Robert
I made a tapered steel insert for the TCA and used a threaded rod with nuts at either end to fit the anti-roll bar bushes (using red rubber grease). Worked OK. You need attachments on the insert to pull it out afterwards.
Pete
I made a tapered steel insert for the TCA and used a threaded rod with nuts at either end to fit the anti-roll bar bushes (using red rubber grease). Worked OK. You need attachments on the insert to pull it out afterwards.
Pete
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Re: Anti-roll bar bushes
Job is done. In the end I decided to try poly. One of my inner pivot bolts well rusted in so didn't fancy taking those track control arms off.
I bought a polyurethane boat trailer roller for $A6. This was enough to make two sets of bushes. I rigged up drill to work like a lathe, mounted the roller on that with a long bolt and then attacked it with an angle grinder while it was spinning. Results are a match size-wise, not that pretty but seem to do the job. I used plenty of ball joint grease, hopefully it won't wear too quickly. All feels a lot tighter at front end and no vices I can discern. We'll see how we go, will keep an eye on tyre wear.
Thanks for advice. Job cost $6 for the boat roller!
Robert
I bought a polyurethane boat trailer roller for $A6. This was enough to make two sets of bushes. I rigged up drill to work like a lathe, mounted the roller on that with a long bolt and then attacked it with an angle grinder while it was spinning. Results are a match size-wise, not that pretty but seem to do the job. I used plenty of ball joint grease, hopefully it won't wear too quickly. All feels a lot tighter at front end and no vices I can discern. We'll see how we go, will keep an eye on tyre wear.
Thanks for advice. Job cost $6 for the boat roller!
Robert
Robert Glacier Blue '87 SE