Radiator Fans

Tanz · Post by **Tanz** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 11:29

I put my repaired radiator back in last weekend but since then my fans won't work. They worked fine before, so it must be something I have done but I can't think what

I reconected the two connectors that connect the fans to the main wiring.
Then each fan had a black wire bolted to the metal supports that hold the motors in place. The otter switch was reconected. Have I missed anything

Both fuses are ok.
I have removed the two wires from the otter switch and connected them together with the ignition switch in the second position but nothing happens. Leaving these two wires connected, I have un pluged one of the fans and put a test light to the incoming wire to the fan but the bulb does not light.
Is the relay by the fuse box and if so which one is it

Should there be an earth wire going to the motor supporting frame

As I say, they were fine before \I removed them so it must be something I have missed when putting them back in.

amarshall · Post by **amarshall** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 12:13

Do the fans turn freely by hand ? The brackets are pretty flimsy and can bend enough to cause the fans to stick.

Failing this - there are two fan fuses and a single double-pole relay in the later circuits. They should be listed in your handbook. From memory the relay is the 2nd or 3rd one from the front of the car in the "outer" row.

Ozzy_UK · Post by **Ozzy_UK** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 12:21

had similar problem, was a wet relay (replaced for £7)part number (Hella) 4RA003510-131 i think...
also check the otter switch is fitted either on it side, or below the pipe (put mine in above the level of the water first time too :S

silly sod that i am
hope that helps!

Tango190 · Post by **Tango190** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 14:54

What year is your car Tanz ??

chrisw2811 · Post by **chrisw2811** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 19:16

Tanz, have you tried with the ignition switch fully on? I'm not sure which circuits are active with the switch at the second position.

amarshall · Post by **amarshall** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 19:22

chrisw2811 wrote:Tanz, have you tried with the ignition switch fully on? I'm not sure which circuits are active with the switch at the second position.

Should be OK at 2nd position (i.e. warning lights [ brake, "fan fail", alternator] illuminated) - works on my '90 SE anyway. This is, after all, the normal running position

chrisw2811 · Post by **chrisw2811** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 19:39

Oops, sorry yes, I've just been in the garage to check. My switch has a fiddly lock which gives the impression of three positions up to ignition on, but is only two.

Tanz · Post by **Tanz** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 19:48

The car is a 1988 E reg.

It,s rained all day here so i havn't been able to get out and try anything.

The fans turn freely. It has to be something stupid I did last week when I put the rad back in.

Why are there 2 wires going into each motor AND a black wire to earth on the metal motor supports

chrisw2811 · Post by **chrisw2811** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 20:06

The black wire to my motor support is loose (another job to do..) but does not seem to affect the operation of the fans, which worked fine all afternoon at Kimbolton. If the connections to the fans are good and the the fault is common to both, looks like the fault is further up the line...

chrisw2811 · Post by **chrisw2811** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 22:50

I wonder if the black wire is an earth lead to prevent static build-up?

Tanz · Post by **Tanz** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 21:44

Good news and bad news

Fixed the fans - now the car won't start

After checking the two fuses all the connections etc I came to the conclution it must be the relay. So I pulled the 1st relay from the front of the car in the outer row but the number did not match the one suggested by Ozzy (above). The second one did match, I checked the third (just in case there was 2 the same) but this did not match. My conclusion was the 2nd one must be for the fans. I tried to start the car with the 2nd one missing. My thinking being that if every thing else worked this would confirm this to be the relay for the fans. The car would not start. I put the relay back in but the car still would not start. I looked in my hand book at the list of fuses to see if there could be a fuse which may have blown that could stop the car starting and to my suprise I found a third fuse which is to do with the fans. A 2 Amp radiator fans control fuse. I pulled this fuse and sure enough it had blown. I exchanged it for the 2amp heater fuse and now the fans work but the car still won't start

I guess I might have disturbed something while pulling the relays. Normally when an engine won't start you can smell excess unburnt fuel under the bonnet but there is no fuel smell so maybe the pump is not working

Any ideas

Markexel · Post by **Markexel** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 22:17

Go into the boot and switch on ignition ,see if pump is working

It will stop once the float chambers are full

Also is there a spark ?take a plug out and earth it on block turn engine over to see if u have a spark

Are all the coil wires connected includeing HT ?what about the plug that goes to the dizzy {2 wires}?

Mark

Tanz · Post by **Tanz** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 21:48

Got home from work tonight and tried to start car - nothing doing.
Held a plug against the block while the wife turned the engine over - no spark. Checked usual electrical connections but could find nothing wrong.
As mentioned before - I had been pulling relays and fuses and there was a tangled mass of wires in this area.

Is everyones wiring like this

Anyway - I noticed the imobiliser connections were here and they were those stupid plastic clip over things which often make a poor connection and are easily 'disturbed. Had I interfered with these connections and the imobiliser was playing up.

I switched off the alarm/imobiliser using the key swith on the unit.

First turn off the key and the engine fired up

So i've just got to sort out the poor imobiser connections. Has anyone got a better way of connecting wires than those plastic connectors as in the picture

By the way - the fans cut in at about 90 and brought the temp down to 85 before cutting out. When diving - the temp is usually at 80.

Another point - when I came to replace the 2 amp radiator fan control fuse. Iwent to my local car shop who said he had never seen a 2 amp push in fuse. I had to buy a 3 amp which isn't ideal.

amarshall · Post by **amarshall** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 22:38

Ewwwww! Nasty, nasty wiring....Not normal, definitely NOT normal.

Fuses : http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/287

Tanz · Post by **Tanz** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 22:54

Thanks for the fuse link - I will give them a try