1986 Excel SA Mid life refresh

[Alan_M]

Modern rubber seems to be

Fitted new CVJ boot to my Elan to replace an original that lasted over 30 years.
New one has split while sat waiting for other work - wheel hasn’t even turned!!!

[Hawaiis0]

Update on the perfectly fitting boot seal that is perishing like 40 year old rubber.

Well the rubber was 40 years old!

Taxi!

[Hawaiis0]

Antics today include

Fog light plinths remounted.



Replacing the old refitted boot seal with a new one I just happen to find on the shelf.

New LH bonnet release cable installed and both sides reconnected.

Bulkhead air plenum re-mounted

Boot lock re-mounted.

Aircon pipes prepared.

Leather door trim taken out of storage, shuffled placed back in box and restored. Maybe next time

[Hawaiis0]

As I progress, I clean, restore and paint parts as necessary or replace. The heater matrix valve was one item to refurb prior to remount. Check of the cost of replacement was around £100 from UK supplier but I managed to get a genuine Toyota one from Japan for £31 'shipping inc'. Well that saved a paint brush!



New side repeater next to clear way for the fuse/relay panel in the LH footwell to be remounted with looms to the door and then the heater system. Note side repeater mounts with the lens screw forward!





Followers may recall a PO rogue wire running across the engine bay and passing through the bulkhead on each side. That was a jumper for the central locking yellow wire which was broken in the loom - 3 inches from the connector in the door. Rather than fix the loom the ridiculous jumper was installed. Now back to standard.

Top tip make sure the heater fan is installed BEFORE you mount the bonnet latch. IT's a right phaff otherwise.

[Hawaiis0]

The perfectly serviceable original heater valve is available at £31 if anyone interested.

£75 +vat and postage from UK supplier

Bargain

Japanese supplier details £40 if interested

[Hawaiis0]

Not much progress last few weeks regrettably.

The 2 unconnected pinkish wires floating centrally in the image are important!

They are for the low pressure switch connected to the evaporator inlet pipe, which is behind everything you see in the image.

Here endeth todays lesson.

[Pete Boole]

Bugger! One step forward etc..

Pete

[Hawaiis0]

Fortunately easy fix in the Lotus position, working blind using aircraft trained hands.

[Hawaiis0]

Although I have had the car 13 years, I never noticed that the under tray had at some point been dragged on the floor as a 3 inch deep triangular wedge section was missing on one side. Obvious road friction.



So I had a go at glassing a section back in and it seems to have worked.



The intake void is massive when you stare down it.



One hiccup. Maybe because of a combination of factors but the passenger side hasn't closed fully. this will be rectified by an infill of some kind. I wont do a Rolls Royce fix as I would need to undo too much.

Both the radiator and condenser are not original. Therefore there is depth growth mainly due to the fixation of the stud mounts being unmeasured and unconsidered in the knock on effect they created. Hindsight is wonderful. I wont make that mistake again!

[Hawaiis0]

Various bolts in play when fitting the nose cowl and undertray. Each playing its own part.



Two complete the securing of the nose cowl to the body.

One links nose cowl to the undertray.

One secures the condenser to the undertray.

One secures the radiator to the undertray.

Making them all one