wiper motor

[Tanz]

Thanks Phil that's really helpful. I've only had slow and intermittent speeds available on my wipers for quite a while but they've eventually given up the ghost good and proper.

Exactly what happened to me. Moved slowly sometimes or not at all till eventually they stopped. Easy fix once you get the motor out and the same motor (Lucas) was fitted to thousands of cars so replacement brushes are available.

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9746&hilit=wipers&start=15

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273059488207 ... R8T44JDYYQ

[MetBlue]

I'd consider fitting a new wheel box at the same time, or at least turning it through 180 degrees to get a new set of teeth in use.
When I removed mine it was soooo corroded the spindle was very difficult to turn and was almost impossible to seal so was allowing major leak into the car.
Tony

[KevW]

Thanks for the tip Tony, I'll look into that.

When I get the motor on the bench I'm going to try to visually match it up with other motors used in the BL range. When I replaced an electric window motor last year I found a Classic/Mk1 Range Rover window motor was a perfect fit so hopefully I'll have similar luck with the wiper motor.

[KevW]

Also there is a seady bracket wiper wheelbox A010 with a screw and washer. This too was not in my assembly, and can't imagine how it could be installed/removed even with the HVAC removed. I take it this isn't needed because the bundy is short and does this job?

Well after looking at the Excel parts manual I think my car must have the steady bracket Bill mentions.

With the motor free from its bracket and able to be moved around inside the dash the spindle on my car is showing no signs of wanting to drop back inside the car and is rock solid in its position. I've even tried tapping it in with a hammer and wooden block to no avail. It really does feel as if it is fastened to something made from metal beneath the scuttle. As there is no way I can get to this area I'm going to leave the spindle in place. I've ordered a new 29W motor brush set and will try to fit it with the motor still attached and inside the dash. I think it will be fiddly but do-able.

[MetBlue]

It's not impossible to removed the motor, leaving the cable drive in the car.
You need to remove the cover plate( 5or 6 small selt tapping screws with hex heads), then remove a circlip from the drive wheel. Fiddly, but I'd think easier than doing a brush change in situ. There's a nut between the cable and motor, but can't remember if you need to slacken. Got a feeling the male part can lift out once the cover plate is off.
With the motor off, you'll also be able to check the drive cable and worm are free moving.
Tony

[Alan_M]

Pretty sure you can just undo the large nut that holds the rigid pipe which carries the “spring” inner. Then remove motor and inner flexible cable leaving the rigid outer pipe in situ.

[Pete Boole]

You can Alan. The inner cable is on a peg on the sliding/reciprocating block inside.

Pete

[KevW]

Thanks for the advice chaps. It's tricky to get an appreciation of how it all fits together when it's in situ and not on the bench

[Tanz]

I think you have to slacken the nut arrowed below (as mentioned above) but think you might have to remove the cover plate as well.

[KevW]

Thanks for making that clear Phil. I can touch the large nut but can't get near it with a spanner.

My plan is to remove the gear wheel cover, remove the gear wheel and con rod and then that should allow me to dismantle the motor and fit the new points. In theory....

[KevW]

Wiper motor is working again.

I ftted a new Land Rover brush set as recommended Phil Tanz after dismantling the motor and giving everything a good clean with petrol followed by a re-grease.

To get the motor out I followed advice from Tony MetBlue. So if anyone has the same problem I had whereby the wiper spindle won't drop back into the car the alternative wiper motor removal procedure is as follows;

Remove steering wheel
Remove instrument panel
Disconnect corrugated air vent pipe on left hand side of instrument panel void and move it out of the way
Remove the 2 bolts that hold wiper motor bracket to bulkhead and remove bracket
Disconnect motor wiring plug
Undo the 6 small hex head self tapping screws that secure the gear cover (an earth tag is fitted to one of them)
Remove the circlip and washer from the drive wheel shaft on the outside of the housing
The motor/wiper gear assembly will now lift clear leaving the wiper cable inner and outer in situ. I didn't remove the con rod from the gear wheel nor did I need to slacken the large brass wiper cable nut.

Having to re-assemble everything inside the dash was pretty fiddly and took a lot longer than it would have on my workbench but it is do-able. I found the best way was to clip the con rod into the wiper cable yolk and then insert the wiper gear shaft into the wiper gear housing. I re-fitted the washer and circlip with my right hand whilst clamping the assemby together with my left. I then clipped the wiper cable into its channel in the housing and replaced the cover. Whether this was any more fiddly than removing and re-installing the wiper spindle I don't know as that route wasn't an option for me.

PS I discovered when I refitted the earth tag to the cover mounting bolt the 10A wiper motor fuse in the fuse box blows when the wiper is switched on. If I disconnect the earth tag the wiper works as it should. I'm no auto electrician - does anyone have any idea why this is happening?

[Tanz]

PS I discovered when I refitted the earth tag to the cover mounting bolt the 10A wiper motor fuse in the fuse box blows when the wiper is switched on. If I disconnect the earth tag the wiper works as it should. I'm no auto electrician - does anyone have any idea why this is happening?

I can only think that a positive wire or connection is touching the inside of the case or some metal part somewhere
The metal casing around the motor perhaps.

[Hawaiis0]

.......

PS I discovered when I refitted the earth tag to the cover mounting bolt the 10A wiper motor fuse in the fuse box blows when the wiper is switched on. If I disconnect the earth tag the wiper works as it should. I'm no auto electrician - does anyone have any idea why this is happening?

I wonder if you may have got your connections crossed when the brush bar was reconnected
Brush - wiper motor connector wmc
Yellow - pin 5 Red/Light green stripe
Red - pin 3 Blue/ light green stripe
Blue - pin 1 Black

1 and 3 swapped? Blows when switched
1 and 5 swapped? Blows on key

Stu

[KevW]

I'm pretty certain I didn't cross any wires Stu as I was careful not to.

I'll do a test to see if the motor casing is live Phil.

[KevW]

The wiper motor casing is live. Looks like the motor is coming out again!