I wonder how difficult it would be to convert to a pre 88 model ?
Bash
Bonnet vents and spoilers. Well the cars are basically a lump of body filler so converting the bonnet might be easily done with a Dremel and body filler. It's the spoilers that might be most problematic?
You'd not want to pay full price for one to convert mind you. A shop soiled one might be better?
I faced the dilemma. I really wanted one to reflect the Celebration model, so green seemed the obvious choice, but so much of the detail is incorrect for the Celebration (incl colour), so the other choice was red which if I'm honest is my preferred colour for the Excel. the idea of modifying one to be a replica of a Celebration, now that's an interesting thought.
I received mine just before Christmas. As promised, Grand Prix Models had corrected the badges. Since the model is an exact replica of my car in colour and trim, I then went on to find some 1/18th scale number plates. Again, they replicate the post-2001 font plates on my car, I chose the "No Border" option. I'm very happy with the result:
The plates (self adhesive labels) came from this seller on ebay, very helpful and quick delivery.
The number plates on the model are decals applied to accurately sized metal plates. I hoped to soak the decals off but they didn't want to budge. Eventually I very carefully used the blade of a small screwdriver to scrape the old decal away. A steel rule and a scalpel or sharp blade are need to cut the new plates accurately to size before applying them. You get two sets in case you're not happy with the first one!
Looks great.
My red one arrived last week. Immediately bought new reg plates off eBay. Still waiting for them.
Was going to just stick over the top of old, but now you've set the bar high so I'll have to scrape back too.
Thanks Peter. It's worth taking the time to remove the old plate decals. I found the new self adhesive plates were a tiny bit smaller than the metal backing plates on the model, so if I had just stuck them over the top, the edges (especially on the back) may have been visible.
So when you scrape the old number plate off, does the yellow and white backgrounds scrape off too, or just the black number? Ie. What are you left with?
All the yellow and white comes off too. You are left with a stainless steel (?) silver plate. It certainly didn't scratch too easily with the screwdriver blade, but I was careful. If your plates come like mine they are printed on a white film. I cut the front plate to the exact width, but very slightly over on the height, so it filled the silver plate. On the rear, the plate was printed in yellow on the white film, and it didn't look right to have a white edge on the top. So I cut it to size, and accepted that I have a very slight silver border to the plate at the top. It actually shows up more in the photo than it does in real life, you would have to be looking for it.
Now several members have the model, I have a question. Do the small metal plaques underneath, in my case 001/120, refer to 120 in green plus 120 in red, or 120 total? My daughter is convinced mine is the first off the line, but I couldn't be that lucky? Also is the red one registered the same F135RPL, as the green, is this a currently registered car? Jeff.
I tried to separate the bottom of the car from it's black plastic shipping cradle to look for the build number, but it's stuck fast. Repeated clumsy attempts resulted in the broken aerial
Out with the superglue once I've calmed down.
So how have others removed it from that great big sticky pad?
(Expecting replies of 'carefully')
Be very careful with that superglue Peter. The fumes from super glue can fog clear plastic. If I were you I'd apply masking tape to the windscreen to protect it and apply the glue to the broken aerial rather than the aerial base.
Be very careful with that superglue Peter. The fumes from super glue can fog clear plastic. If I were you I'd apply masking tape to the windscreen to protect it and apply the glue to the broken aerial rather than the aerial base.
Thanks Kev.
Yes, I was thinking similarly. Mask roof and screen. Hold aerial with forceps. Carefully, and sparingly, dip broken end into a pre-dispensed drop of very low viscosity superglue. Position aerial and hold with forceps briefly until set.
But HOW did you remove the car from the cradle? Mine's stuck fast.
Mine just pulled off the sticky pad after I had removed the screws (3?) through the base plinth into the chassis/floorpan. Maybe I was just lucky. Jeff.
