New member - new owner
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- rbgosling
- Senior Poster
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- Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 22:55
- Model: Lotus Excel SE
- Colour: Midnight Blue
- Year: 1990
- Location: Rugby
Re: New member - new owner
For generic nuts and bolts I find Boltbase has a wide range, good prices, and quick delivery.
"Farmer" Richard
1990 Lotus Excel SE (Lilith)
2022 MG MG5 EV (not due to be a classic for quite a few years...)
2011 Nissan Leaf (Ragly - EV pioneer, must be due to be a classic one day)
1990 Lotus Excel SE (Lilith)
2022 MG MG5 EV (not due to be a classic for quite a few years...)
2011 Nissan Leaf (Ragly - EV pioneer, must be due to be a classic one day)
- bash
- Senior Poster
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- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 15:34
- Model: Se, V8
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Re: New member - new owner
Just in case some dont know what the bolt ratings are, 8.8 is a general grade of steel bolt and 10.9 is high tensile.
Stainless bolts usually come in three grades 80, 70 and 50, all of which are softer than a 8.8 steel bolt.
The upshot is, be careful where you use stainless.
Bash
Stainless bolts usually come in three grades 80, 70 and 50, all of which are softer than a 8.8 steel bolt.
The upshot is, be careful where you use stainless.
Bash
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.
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Re: New member - new owner
not really, 8.8 is already quite decentbash wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 14:37Just in case some dont know what the bolt ratings are, 8.8 is a general grade of steel bolt and 10.9 is high tensile.
Stainless bolts usually come in three grades 80, 70 and 50, all of which are softer than a 8.8 steel bolt.
The upshot is, be careful where you use stainless.
Bash
fiirst figure is tensile strenght x 100N/mm2
second figure yield strength as percentage of tensile stenght x 10.
So 8.8 is tensile 800, yield 640 etc.
General stuff is often 4.6 or 5.6
- bash
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Re: New member - new owner
Agreed, but I was just making a point about stainless. Some applications dont need good quality bolts and in industry some are chosen so that the bolt will fail before a component. Really I was making the point that grades do vary and its horses for courses. Important when internet buying.
Bash
Bash
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.
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- Model: Excel SE
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- Year: 1987
Re: New member - new owner
And I've suddenly realised it's been a month since my last update. I've ordered triumph herald top links, a carb gasket kit (x2) and seat webbing to fix the drivers seat.
I also have some horse mat (it's a thick, rubber-like matt, supportive but pliable) to use in between the sponge of the seat and the webbing just to give the seat base a bit more support. Good stuff, I think it'll work.
I'll take pictures and post up as the work progresses. Still waiting on some of the things to arrive.
It's then a windscreen wiper (so far I've seen them for £20....) and a doorframe and door lock mechanism and I've got to get one of the light pods working (think it's stiff from lack of use) and some way to sort the headlight rings (the things that the headlights are attached to that allow adjustment - one of them has rusted away to nothing.
Then I've got to refit the roof interior elements (but not strictly essential for an mot), glue the strip that runs around the car, buy 4 new tyres and then go for an MOT.
I also have some horse mat (it's a thick, rubber-like matt, supportive but pliable) to use in between the sponge of the seat and the webbing just to give the seat base a bit more support. Good stuff, I think it'll work.
I'll take pictures and post up as the work progresses. Still waiting on some of the things to arrive.
It's then a windscreen wiper (so far I've seen them for £20....) and a doorframe and door lock mechanism and I've got to get one of the light pods working (think it's stiff from lack of use) and some way to sort the headlight rings (the things that the headlights are attached to that allow adjustment - one of them has rusted away to nothing.
Then I've got to refit the roof interior elements (but not strictly essential for an mot), glue the strip that runs around the car, buy 4 new tyres and then go for an MOT.
- MetBlue
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Re: New member - new owner
Nearly done then.
Summer meetings here we come
Good work.
Tony
Summer meetings here we come
Good work.
Tony
What goes together.... Must come apart.
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Re: New member - new owner
With everything I've got going on at the moment (particularly on Saturdays) it's a miracle I found 30 mins to work on the car this evening. I literally had a half hour so thought to myself - what do I tackle? So rather than start working on the carbs I thought I'd look at the drivers seat (with the fallen bottom, a la hello hello, as it were).
I'd tried to steam clean the top of the seat too but gave up on that sharpish - it needs a clean rather than a steam.
So having turned it over I set about get the runner frame off, using a bit of pipe for leverage to get the initial turn then the bolts came out fairly easily. the WD40 I'd applied didn't really have time to work. Hey ho. no issues thankfully.
Leverage - sometimes you've just got to use what you have to hand;
Underneath there was some flaky paint etc etc and each metal tab holding the seat material was also showing signs of corrosion so I've dabbed bilt hamber hydrate 80 on and then tomorrow I'll cover with some black metal paint I've got. Might as well, whilst I'm under there.
My plan is to use some horse mat (the stuff horsey people use to take the pressure off their horses knees when in stables) to bolster underneath. I only need about 37cm x 30cm (ish). This is what it looks like;
and this is how thick it is;
Cheap as chips too, bearing in mind I've got bucket-loads of it.
Plan is to use some upholstery webbing and secure the worn out rubber element that's given up the fight of holding the sponge cushion where it should be. As you can see;
Not sure what I'm going to use to secure the webbing. Initial thoughts are to make incisions close to the rod/wire and then use v wide industrial cable ties (i know - doesn't sound good) to secure the overlapped webbing together. I've bought 5 metres of the stuff so I can experiment to my heart's content without ever worrying I'm going to run out....... I'll probably make one up and then put it all together and show it on here to garner opinion. It might work.....it probably wont but interested to hear how others did it. Might use the existing hooks too (taking the worn out rubber elements off the existing hooks and use them) or in fact both methods. Key is that the solution is robust....and frankly the hook and rubber method that Lotus used doesn't feel like it should work - but it clearly did for about 30 years.....
I've got a polytunnel to move from a neighbours house to ours (in one piece) to do next week (and following week - digging the footings out next week) and I've also bought a tractor too that needs fettling...
And 20 sheep and 25 laying hens and well, life really.
Still got the door frame, the carbs, the bolts for the seats, the wiper, the door latch and interior to put in....but apart from that....! Oh and 4 tyres.
Carb gasket kit arrived today so can't wait (well, I can actually, quite nervous working on carbs, first time and all that) to get cracking on those. Im sure there's an issue with the heater controls too that needs looking at .....but it's not a priority right now. I want the engine sorted, then the doorframe (prices are quite punchy for those, have to confess) and then I'm pretty much ready to mot it.....apart from the headlight issue..... Onwards!!
I'd tried to steam clean the top of the seat too but gave up on that sharpish - it needs a clean rather than a steam.
So having turned it over I set about get the runner frame off, using a bit of pipe for leverage to get the initial turn then the bolts came out fairly easily. the WD40 I'd applied didn't really have time to work. Hey ho. no issues thankfully.
Leverage - sometimes you've just got to use what you have to hand;
Underneath there was some flaky paint etc etc and each metal tab holding the seat material was also showing signs of corrosion so I've dabbed bilt hamber hydrate 80 on and then tomorrow I'll cover with some black metal paint I've got. Might as well, whilst I'm under there.
My plan is to use some horse mat (the stuff horsey people use to take the pressure off their horses knees when in stables) to bolster underneath. I only need about 37cm x 30cm (ish). This is what it looks like;
and this is how thick it is;
Cheap as chips too, bearing in mind I've got bucket-loads of it.
Plan is to use some upholstery webbing and secure the worn out rubber element that's given up the fight of holding the sponge cushion where it should be. As you can see;
Not sure what I'm going to use to secure the webbing. Initial thoughts are to make incisions close to the rod/wire and then use v wide industrial cable ties (i know - doesn't sound good) to secure the overlapped webbing together. I've bought 5 metres of the stuff so I can experiment to my heart's content without ever worrying I'm going to run out....... I'll probably make one up and then put it all together and show it on here to garner opinion. It might work.....it probably wont but interested to hear how others did it. Might use the existing hooks too (taking the worn out rubber elements off the existing hooks and use them) or in fact both methods. Key is that the solution is robust....and frankly the hook and rubber method that Lotus used doesn't feel like it should work - but it clearly did for about 30 years.....
I've got a polytunnel to move from a neighbours house to ours (in one piece) to do next week (and following week - digging the footings out next week) and I've also bought a tractor too that needs fettling...
And 20 sheep and 25 laying hens and well, life really.
Still got the door frame, the carbs, the bolts for the seats, the wiper, the door latch and interior to put in....but apart from that....! Oh and 4 tyres.
Carb gasket kit arrived today so can't wait (well, I can actually, quite nervous working on carbs, first time and all that) to get cracking on those. Im sure there's an issue with the heater controls too that needs looking at .....but it's not a priority right now. I want the engine sorted, then the doorframe (prices are quite punchy for those, have to confess) and then I'm pretty much ready to mot it.....apart from the headlight issue..... Onwards!!
Last edited by Oi_Oi_Savaloy on Mon Apr 11, 2022 12:22, edited 1 time in total.
- Excel SA
- Senior Poster
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- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 06:11
- Model: Excel
- Colour: White
- Year: 1987
- Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Re: New member - new owner
I remade the rubber diaphragms but it wasn't much fun to do! I reinforced the back section where it tends to tear first with two rows of webbing attached to the seat frame with Pirelli clips and self-tapping screws - that's what I had at hand. There are webbing hooks available that might fit straight into the holes that are already in the frame for the current setup, but would (I think) need holes drilled into the front bar for front to rear straps - there are holes across the back with plastic rivets in.
Neil.
Neil.
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Re: New member - new owner
Pirelli clips! perfect - they attach on each side and then you press them (the sides of each pirelli clip) together? Way better than cable tie thoughts. Thanks
- Excel SA
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Re: New member - new owner
Those are the ones - these might work better, but hard to judge size and whether they will fit the holes/tubes.
https://www.discoverupholstery.co.uk/sh ... r-webbing/
This is what my modified base looks like - I have added in another row of webbing since that pic - Pirelli clips used and I doubled up on the webbing - you may have t look at what clearance you have for the clips or use the Pirelli clips and the original hooks???
Neil
https://www.discoverupholstery.co.uk/sh ... r-webbing/
This is what my modified base looks like - I have added in another row of webbing since that pic - Pirelli clips used and I doubled up on the webbing - you may have t look at what clearance you have for the clips or use the Pirelli clips and the original hooks???
Neil
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- Junior Poster
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- Model: Excel SE
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- Year: 1987
Re: New member - new owner
Just ordered some bonnet struts (classic range rover ones); https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251695805095
And last night I took out the driver's side headlight pod - the motor isn't working and I needed to get at it and see if I can resurrect it. (but either way - it's got to come out.)
This is after I'd hoovered all the mud and detritus out below the motor.
Some sorry looking bolts etc in there too.....and you'll notice the wooden barge board (for want of a better description is in a sorry state at the bottom and top too). Thinking about what to do there tbh.
Next post will be about the headlight itself. Need some help with that. Not so much the headlight but it's support.....
And last night I took out the driver's side headlight pod - the motor isn't working and I needed to get at it and see if I can resurrect it. (but either way - it's got to come out.)
This is after I'd hoovered all the mud and detritus out below the motor.
Some sorry looking bolts etc in there too.....and you'll notice the wooden barge board (for want of a better description is in a sorry state at the bottom and top too). Thinking about what to do there tbh.
Next post will be about the headlight itself. Need some help with that. Not so much the headlight but it's support.....
Last edited by Oi_Oi_Savaloy on Mon Apr 11, 2022 12:23, edited 1 time in total.
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- Junior Poster
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- Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2021 22:59
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- Colour: Green
- Year: 1987
Re: New member - new owner
And so to the driver's side headlight (passenger's is fine - all of it - nothing wrong with it - which is ironic bearing in mind that side saw all the weather when the car was parked up).
I think the actual headlight just needs drying out....but if not....will replace. Of greater concern is the supporting ring behind it which is in a shocking state and needs replacing or an alternative solution. Anyone had this issue - what did you do?
Possible to drill out and buy replacement support rings (or whatever they're called?)
Any suggestions....gratefully received.
I'm also guessing that MK1 MX5 motors are a direct replacement for the existing toyota ones? or is there phaff involved in choosing them? Can you even buy replacement toyota motors?
I think the actual headlight just needs drying out....but if not....will replace. Of greater concern is the supporting ring behind it which is in a shocking state and needs replacing or an alternative solution. Anyone had this issue - what did you do?
Possible to drill out and buy replacement support rings (or whatever they're called?)
Any suggestions....gratefully received.
I'm also guessing that MK1 MX5 motors are a direct replacement for the existing toyota ones? or is there phaff involved in choosing them? Can you even buy replacement toyota motors?
Last edited by Oi_Oi_Savaloy on Mon Apr 11, 2022 12:24, edited 1 time in total.
- bash
- Senior Poster
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Re: New member - new owner
I think they are toyota mr2 mk1 motors, can anyone confirm.
I would take the motors to pieces and clean them first, they are probably ok.
Bash
I would take the motors to pieces and clean them first, they are probably ok.
Bash
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.
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Re: New member - new owner
I think they are too....but I'm going to take it apart, as you say, and see if I can free it up, check the wiring and try to re-fettle it.
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Re: New member - new owner
Your headlamp support rings are easy to remove as they are only pop riveted.
See what they are like once you have derusted them as SJ`s are £30 a pop, or make some nice stainless ones.
ian
See what they are like once you have derusted them as SJ`s are £30 a pop, or make some nice stainless ones.
ian