Long Clutch pedal.

[MetBlue]

I thought about posting on the back of this thread, but then decided not to.
viewtopic.php?p=97506#p97506

Since I got my car 2 years ago, the clutch has disengaged very late in the pedal travel - Bury in the carpet time . Virtually first job was to adjust the clevis on the pedal, which at least made gear selection slightly easier.

Recently, I was feeling maybe 10mm of loose travel at the top of the pedal, so finally took the plunge under the dash to adjust the clevis a bit further.
Less than 2 turns later, the actuating rod was disengaged from the clevis .
So I suspect my pedal may be suffering the same bent syndrome as discussed in earlier thread.

Cars about to be SORNed for a suspension refresh, so another job on the list

Questions.
Where exactly does it bend - Any one got a picture? - Maybe I can see somethying before removing pedal box.
Does the steering column need removing totally, or can you just drop the front from the pedal box?

Tony

[bash]

The one I did had bent at the right hand of the assembly, near the clevis
Bash

[MetBlue]

What a job, but can report the pedal box is out
Removed the dash ( not difficult as was out last winter) and only dropped the steering column from the pedal box - didn't remove totally.

Good news is I can see the influence of Juri Gellar in the clutch pedal. The bend is "inside the pedal box area, very close to where the secondary lever is welded to the pivot. I can see cracked paint in the bend area, but can't photograph it well. A straight edge is placed parallel to the first 20mm of the arm, showing how it drifts away after the bend.



The bend means the clutch arm is not square to the box and the clevis point is 155mm from the Brake pedal. Measuring the centres between brake and clutch cylinders on the car I get 165mm



Once it's bent back, should be pretty close to the required 165mm



Can't see how the pedal can be removed to bend straight, so thinking this is going to need to be done on an assembled box. Is this the experience of others who've trodden this path?

Must admit though, I'm really struggling to understand the force path that would generate this bend over time. I was expecting the arm to be twisted, not bent.

Tony

[Pete Boole]

Can't see how the pedal can be removed to bend straight

Tony

Use a drift to remove the 12mm pivot pin. There is a stainless expansion ring at one end - knock it both ways to see which end it is and then continue to knock it out so that the ring comes out first. Make a note of the position of the washers between the pedals. You have to remove both the clutch and brake pedals.

Pete

[MetBlue]

Thanks Pete. Very pleased I asked this question as the spindle rotated when the Clutch pedal was moved - It shouldn't.
Here's a picture of the locking ring Pete speaks of, which is supposed to bit outwardly into the pedal box frame - it did, and inwardly into the shaft - it didn't.


All in bits now and a better photo of the bent arm:


Time for a few repairs, but in speaking with Pete earlier, it did become clear I should perhaps at least remove the Master Cylinder and take a look to see if any damage to the piston ( far easier now with the pedal box out. certainly the seal is worn beyond good:


Tony

[Pete Boole]

That reinforcing bracket looks like it's been out before - I don't think it should have that slot cut in it (but it's 10 years since I last saw one!).

Pete

[Alan_M]

That reinforcing bracket looks like it's been out before - I don't think it should have that slot cut in it (but it's 10 years since I last saw one!).

Pete

The one in my 85 certainly doesn’t have that slot.

[MetBlue]

Having split down the pedal box, the spindle when fitted just into the two bushes of the clutch pedal was tight. - The two pivot points were out of alignment, making the spindle bind.
Very minor twist with the short arm in the vice soon had the pin sliding freely.
Then noticed a very defined twist in the bridge between the two bushes at the rear. It was in the correct direction to effectively move the clevis away from the master Cylinder, hence reducing travel.
This is very definitely the route cause of my lack of clutch pedal adjustment.
Again with the master Cylinder arm in the vice and the pin through the bores, it was surprising how easy it was to push on the pedal and remove the twist. In effect, you are getting a lot of mechanical advantage from the pedal. Fortunately the clutch arm is maybe 1/3rd the length of the pedal, but I can easily see how over time, the rear bridge twists.

Anyway, it's not going to happen again !!! I'm in the process of welding a couple of side plates adjacent to the bridge.



Only issue now is I've bent the arm so much that I need to re-assure myself it's not gone too far, so a dry fit of the pedal box back into the car to check the adjustment is in order before welding tight.

Oh : And the clevis / pin are really worn, so waiting on a new clevis and pin from Ebay.

Tony

[Pete Boole]

Make sure the top of the throttle pedal (where the cable attaches) doesn't touch the new metalwork - ISTR it gets quite close. I also welded a strengthening plate in the same position on the track car - worked well.

Pete

[MetBlue]

. Make sure the top of the throttle pedal (where the cable attaches) doesn't touch the new metalwork

Good point. Throttle pedal is currently removed and I wasn't necessarily going to refit it on the trial fit. I now will.
It will also allow me to see if a theory I have to make access to the throttle cable clevis will work.
Just need to find the time to get out there.
Tony