Just a thought.
If you can clean the inside of rust a bit, you can use a resin coating inside to form a continuous bag.
After all, the water leak comes from the inside so plugging from the inside is better.
Dave the cog.
Coolant Expansion Tank Repair
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- DavidOliver
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Re: Coolant Expansion Tank Repair
+1 for JB Weld - buy the one that's not quick setting - it's the strongest. Use it to bond on a patch as Bash suggested rather than just blobbing it on. It's absolutely essential that both parts are grease-free and keyed. Maybe use a big Jubilee clip to keep it in place while it sets.
Pete
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Re: Coolant Expansion Tank Repair
I would consider moving to Evans Waterless Coolant to reduce stress on cooling system components. As the boiling point is 180 degrees, there is little or no pressure in the system, meaning that fewer leaks will develop and when they do they will tend to be gradual rather than catastrophic. As a side benefit, it is non-corrosive and will be kinder to the water pump than standard coolant. It is expensive and you have to flush the system first with a special flush, but worth it I think. I’ve had it in my car for several years.
Cheers, Richard
Cheers, Richard
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Re: Coolant Expansion Tank Repair
I'd go for (quick setting) Fe Weld , it looks fairly easy*) to replicate if you can reuse the spouts.Pete Boole wrote: ↑Sun Aug 28, 2022 10:24+1 for JB Weld - buy the one that's not quick setting - it's the strongest.
*) metal fabricating workshop required
- rbgosling
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Re: Coolant Expansion Tank Repair
Well, it seems my repair didn't last that long. The rust streak on the outside tells an unmistakable story:
To be fair, the inside of the tank is horrible, so it had to go.
So, I've admitted defeat, and dropped £222 (inc. VAT) on a shiny new aluminium one from SJs.
Looks good, no rust (and never will be), and lighter! Didn't come with a level sensor, but it did have the hole and a new grommet so I just pulled the sensor out of the old tank and pushed it into the new one. Only hitch was that tab they welded on for the earth was way too chunky for the spade connector, so instead I drilled and tapped a hole in the tab and crimped a ring connector instead of the spade, which could be screwed into said hole:
To be fair, the inside of the tank is horrible, so it had to go.
So, I've admitted defeat, and dropped £222 (inc. VAT) on a shiny new aluminium one from SJs.
Looks good, no rust (and never will be), and lighter! Didn't come with a level sensor, but it did have the hole and a new grommet so I just pulled the sensor out of the old tank and pushed it into the new one. Only hitch was that tab they welded on for the earth was way too chunky for the spade connector, so instead I drilled and tapped a hole in the tab and crimped a ring connector instead of the spade, which could be screwed into said hole:
"Farmer" Richard
1990 Lotus Excel SE (Lilith)
2022 MG MG5 EV (not due to be a classic for quite a few years...)
2011 Nissan Leaf (Ragly - EV pioneer, must be due to be a classic one day)
1990 Lotus Excel SE (Lilith)
2022 MG MG5 EV (not due to be a classic for quite a few years...)
2011 Nissan Leaf (Ragly - EV pioneer, must be due to be a classic one day)
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Re: Coolant Expansion Tank Repair
What's the other tab that appears to be welded to the end of the tank?
Pete
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- rbgosling
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Re: Coolant Expansion Tank Repair
Just appears to be a flat plate, welded only on the outer edge. No idea what its purpose is. The original tank had one too (welded on both sides - just pulled it out of the recycling to check!).Pete Boole wrote: ↑Sun Feb 12, 2023 13:10What's the other tab that appears to be welded to the end of the tank?
Pete
"Farmer" Richard
1990 Lotus Excel SE (Lilith)
2022 MG MG5 EV (not due to be a classic for quite a few years...)
2011 Nissan Leaf (Ragly - EV pioneer, must be due to be a classic one day)
1990 Lotus Excel SE (Lilith)
2022 MG MG5 EV (not due to be a classic for quite a few years...)
2011 Nissan Leaf (Ragly - EV pioneer, must be due to be a classic one day)