Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

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MetBlue
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Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by MetBlue »

Looking for advise on how easy it is to remove a drive shaft without stripping anything else on the suspension.

I have rotational play in the out board CV joint, but think it will pass the MOT. Not knowing if anything else on that corner will be found in need of attention at the MOT, I'm tempted to leave the repair until after the test in case more work is needed.

But on the other hand, if it's as straight forward as it looks, it would seem pretty much the first thing to do on any suspension work is to remove the drive shaft, so maybe there is no reason to not do it before hand.

Thoughts from those with experience please.

Tony
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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by Pete Boole »

Yes - driveshaft removal is as easy as it looks. The small-AF nuts on the outboard CV flange are sometimes a bit corroded - you can still get replacements I think.

Pete

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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by Hawaiis0 »

May as well do the diff output seals if you take them off.
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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by AndyD »

Yes it's dead easy - even easier if you can rotate the wheels whilst on stands as it helps to have the best access to the nuts possible as they are invariably corroded as Pete suggests.

Had to do mine twice due to defective output shaft seals supplied first time...

Took the opportunity to re-grease CV's and fit new CV Clips at the same time.

Andy

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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by DavidOliver »

To be pedantic, do we have Constant Velocity (CV) joints or Universal Joints U/J´s?

And while on drive shafts, is there a supplier for reasonably priced differential output shaft oil seals other than our
usual supplier?

Dave the cog.

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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by AndyD »

Dave

Output shaft seals:-

SJ wanted £26 each plus the usual silly postage charges.

Mike did them for £15 each over the phone but I note he charges £40/pair (inc. postage) on the ebay site.

I didn't try Toyota but they could be cheaper I guess if they still have them. Possibly these but not 100% sure:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shaft-Seal-d ... 3156038735

Andy

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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by Hawaiis0 »

DavidOliver wrote:
Mon Sep 28, 2020 10:15
To be pedantic, do we have Constant Velocity (CV) joints or Universal Joints U/J´s?

And while on drive shafts, is there a supplier for reasonably priced differential output shaft oil seals other than our
usual supplier?

Dave the cog.
Toyota prices were approx 20 quid plus vat in 2013 for me. However, there are loads of non OEM choices on ebay from a fiver.
Seal dirt covers were 7.50
Image

Image
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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by Pete Boole »

They are CV joints on the drive shafts - one plunging, one not. It's a long while since I dismantled one but ISTR they are actually tripod joints.

Pete

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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by MetBlue »

To be pedantic, do we have Constant Velocity (CV) joints or Universal Joints U/J´s?
The Excels have CV joints. My Elite has U/J's.
Prop shafts generally are UJ's (or doughnuts - buts a different story)
The UJ can not take 'extension' - at least not without breaking😏, where as a CV joint can take up a degree of axial movement as well as radial if its designed to.
They should last a bit longer than all those needle rollers in the caps on UJ's also.

That's how I've alway seen it anyway.

Tony
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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by MetBlue »

Thanks also for the prompt and constructive direction that this SHOULD BE an easy job (changing drive shaft).
Tempted now to do it before the MOT, as I need to get the back of the car raised up to remove the other broken seat belt mount bolt and nut plate.
Tony
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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by DavidOliver »

I will now be less pedantic. I had expected a CV at the wheel side and a U/J at the diff side.
Effectively we have a CV at both wheel and differential ends of the drive shaft, which made me think we would have an uncontrolled
floating (axially) drive shaft. Obviously not but I don´t know why.

Dave the cog.

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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by Hawaiis0 »

I'm learning as I follow, so here is an input.
Is it not that the diff is fixed and that the hub movement semi fixed and restricted by the top link so there is only a predetermined 'gap' for the shaft to float in? Therefore is controlled.
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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by Pete Boole »

Only one joint plunges - I think it's the outboard one. The other rotates (constant velocity) but does not plunge.

Pete

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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by DavidOliver »

I have asked my mate Clive, an ex GKN Engineer then Land Rover and Jaguar transmission specialist, regarding drive shaft location. Quote>

With the introduction of CV joints it allows for a low axial load and better control of the suspension and
general refinement.
There are several driveshaft CV joint solutions/ Plunging joints at both ends, or a fixed joint at one end and plunging at the other

If you are able to move the bar shaft axially it means Lotus has got plunging joints at both ends which is what I expect.
So if the boots are OK and no leaks I'd just leave them alone, but it doesn't hurt to plunge the bar shaft in and out a
few times to redistribute grease in the joints.

Clive continues with the differntial pinion seal>

With the diff pinion seal be carefull when you tighten the drive flange nut.........if a collapsible design mark the nut.....
and then reassemble to the mark, plus half a flat max with Loctite on the thread.

Clive is looking for an Excel, wants to get on this Forum, enough said.


Dave the cog.

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Re: Drive shaft removal - Easy as it looks?

Post by MetBlue »

. Thanks also for the prompt and constructive direction that this SHOULD BE an easy job (changing drive shaft).
It might be easy, but my... those 14mm A/F nuts sure are tight. Got my 600mm breaker bar on it, but with back end on ramps and nose all but on the floor, there was just not enough room to swing it.
So for now, jobs on hold. Might take the breaker along to the MOT, and see if I can steal 15 minutes after the test to at least crack the nuts. Alternatively, I can access a garage with a pit.

Seat belt plates all fitted though, and a repair to exhaust clamp sorted, plus a just in time replacement of a silencer mounting rubber (thank you Halford - £1.57, so I got 2. - says Escort 91 onwards on packet). Rubber was within a mm of breaking through.

🤞for the test next week.

Tony
What goes together.... Must come apart.

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