Steering stiff

[KiwiPom]

With the front wheels off the ground my local testing station pointed out the steering is stiff and notchy. It passed the test but I agree with them. Even with the engine running, wheels off the ground, and power steering going you can feel the notchyness, it’s only just possible to turn the wheels lock to lock heaving on the wheels.

I assume this is not normal for these cars?

Anyone with experience of this and where first to look?

I’m in NZ and removing (stuck) tie rod ball joints etc could result in the car off the road whilst I wait for new parts so I don’t want to dive in without at least checking there is a known issue. I will need new top ball joints as the seals have rotted.

Note the car has hardly been used for over 25 years before I bought it, and drives ok.

[richardw]

Could be a low PAS oil level - or contaminated oil.

Cheers, Richard

[Pete Boole]

Try and isolate first whether the rack itself is stiff and notchy or the column/ujs are stiff and notchy.

Pete

[MetBlue]

Key words above are "wheels off the ground".
That's how my car is sitting right now and power steering fluid is drained, but steering wheel can be turned smoothly just with one finger pressing to a spoke on the steering wheel.
I'd suspect a column UJ. As Pete suggests slide the lower UJ up the splines to disconnect the rack.
Tony

[KiwiPom]

Key words above are "wheels off the ground".
That's how my car is sitting right now and power steering fluid is drained, but steering wheel can be turned smoothly just with one finger pressing to a spoke on the steering wheel.
I'd suspect a column UJ. As Pete suggests slide the lower UJ up the splines to disconnect the rack.
Tony

Great idea, I have tried to work some oil into the column UJs (upper UJ is hidden behind a large grommet in wheel arch) and things improved but its still not right.

I will keep investigating. I am also beginning to think the PAS is pretty weak, its quite an effort to move the steering wheel when parking….but I am comparing it to a more modern car.

[KiwiPom]

Try and isolate first whether the rack itself is stiff and notchy or the column/ujs are stiff and notchy.

Pete

Thanks

[Alan_M]

I will need new top ball joints as the seals have rotted.

Note the car has hardly been used for over 25 years before I bought it, and drives ok.

If it’s still got the original upper ball joints and it’s just the rubber boots that have split, I would check for any play and if all good, repack with grease and just replace the rubber boot. The current aftermarket ones are nowhere near the same quality, but are easy to get as common part fitted to Triumphs.

[KiwiPom]

I will need new top ball joints as the seals have rotted.

Note the car has hardly been used for over 25 years before I bought it, and drives ok.

If it’s still got the original upper ball joints and it’s just the rubber boots that have split, I would check for any play and if all good, repack with grease and just replace the rubber boot. The current aftermarket ones are nowhere near the same quality, but are easy to get as common part fitted to Triumphs.

Good advice thanks.

[KiwiPom]

Key words above are "wheels off the ground".
That's how my car is sitting right now and power steering fluid is drained, but steering wheel can be turned smoothly just with one finger pressing to a spoke on the steering wheel.
I'd suspect a column UJ. As Pete suggests slide the lower UJ up the splines to disconnect the rack.
Tony

Without disconnecting either of the 2x UJ I squirted oil all over them and the stiffness is virtually gone, so this was the problem. I will remove the UJ in due course and see if they are serviceable or not, if serviceable I will try to get more oil or grease into them. The higher of the 2 UJ’s is accessed through a large rubber bung in the RH wheel arch.

My next quandary is the steering wheel moves in and out about 6mm, it’s not a loose central nut, I am trying to figure out if there is an adjustable “thrust washer” arrangement or is this movement “by design” …….there are washers between the indicator cancelling trigger and the steering shaft outer housing, but they don”t seem to do much. There is also a circlip, but no groove I can see that it fits in! It just slides on the inner steering shaft. All odd.

[Alan_M]

There are 2 different columns fitted depending on year.
I had about 15mm in/out play on an early one - lower bearing completely shot. Also the lower dome that bolts to the bulk head was rotten - managed to get a good used one.

[KiwiPom]

There are 2 different columns fitted depending on year.
I had about 15mm in/out play on an early one - lower bearing completely shot. Also the lower dome that bolts to the bulk head was rotten - managed to get a good used one.

Mine is early, only two UJ, it seems there is no “thrust” bearing adjustment as such, so any axial play in the UJ results in axial play at the steering wheel, but amplified as there is a significant offset between the UJ, but I could be wrong!

It doesn’t bother me during driving, but I don’t think the testing station guys will like it, if they notice it.