Preserving a Calypso Red Excel

[KiwiPom]

My “84 car has been mostly stored in a shed for the last 25 years, but still has a bit of paint fade eg going pink on corners etc, the paint is in pretty amazing condition otherwise. However, NZ is notorious for its high UV and new red cars of a “certain age” (into the ‘90’s) faded after just a few years.

So, I want to use my car a couple of times a month, the rest of the time it will be in a shed, and I am after advice on how to best look after the paint. I guess this starts at “just wash it regularly”, or get it professionally “coated” in a wonder product.

However, I am a bit sceptical of some of the latest wonder products, a mate just paid 1500 nzd to have a new car “ceramic coated” and the warranty on the coating is void if he washes it with anything but water! Not many people will be able to claim under warranty eh.

I am also interested in anything that is known about how to respray the cars, should that be necessary during my ownership, I found this info on an old thread that indicates the A23 code Calypso paint is a 2 pack, not sure if its water based tho.

Simon

“You can tell what paint was used on the car by the paint code number stamped on the lower left hand corner of the vehicle identification plate under the bonnet.
Paint codes with an "L" prefix are nitro-cellulose paint made by either International Paint or ICI.
Paint codes with an "A" prefix are used for cars finished in ICI 2K two pack acrylic polyurethane paints and are either:
P 420 Mono colour
P 421 Metallic
P 422 Basecoat/clear”

[Alan_M]

I’m just (almost finished) repainting my Calypso pink car.
The original factory paint is clear over base. At that time the base would have been solvent, which is still available (in the UK). The industry is moving towards water soluble base coats, but neither are 2k, and it doesn’t matter which is used. The clear coat is the 2k layer, however water based clear coats are available, but not widely used.
As an alternative you can use a 2k single stage paint, basically you can think of this as clear coat with the colour in it. So it hardens by chemical reaction and gives a gloss finish.
The important thing is use the best quality that has the highest resistance to UV.

[KiwiPom]

I’m just (almost finished) repainting my Calypso pink car.
The original factory paint is clear over base. At that time the base would have been solvent, which is still available (in the UK). The industry is moving towards water soluble base coats, but neither are 2k, and it doesn’t matter which is used. The clear coat is the 2k layer, however water based clear coats are available, but not widely used.
As an alternative you can use a 2k single stage paint, basically you can think of this as clear coat with the colour in it. So it hardens by chemical reaction and gives a gloss finish.
The important thing is use the best quality that has the highest resistance to UV.

Thanks Alan, useful info, is there anything special needed in the way of pre respray preparation? The current paint has a small area of clear coat worn through on a screen trim, plus some small “holes” (not blisters) in the roof clear coat (difficult to describe) otherwise it looks a sound base for a respray, a spray company may view the condition differently!

I also thought these cars might lend themselves to wrapping.

[Hawaiis0]

I also thought these cars might lend themselves to wrapping.

I have heard of one wrapped car but not seen it, so do able

[MetBlue]

I looked at a wrapped car in the west midlands 3 years ago when I was looking for a car.
As I recall, it didn't look too bad.
Tony

[Alan_M]

I’m just (almost finished) repainting my Calypso pink car.
The original factory paint is clear over base. At that time the base would have been solvent, which is still available (in the UK). The industry is moving towards water soluble base coats, but neither are 2k, and it doesn’t matter which is used. The clear coat is the 2k layer, however water based clear coats are available, but not widely used.
As an alternative you can use a 2k single stage paint, basically you can think of this as clear coat with the colour in it. So it hardens by chemical reaction and gives a gloss finish.
The important thing is use the best quality that has the highest resistance to UV.

Thanks Alan, useful info, is there anything special needed in the way of pre respray preparation? The current paint has a small area of clear coat worn through on a screen trim, plus some small “holes” (not blisters) in the roof clear coat (difficult to describe) otherwise it looks a sound base for a respray, a spray company may view the condition differently!

I also thought these cars might lend themselves to wrapping.

In terms of preparation - mostly the same as any respray. The major difference in fibreglass is repairing any cracks etc, but also it’s wise to just dry sand it and keep it completely dry through the prep stages. If any damp gets into the fibreglass it will show later as microblisters.

The A post external trim can easily be removed from the car to paint.
If you just want to preserve it from getting worse, you may get away with just putting some new clear coat over to worn areas. If you do this at home with rattle cans it won’t last as long as professional paint.
I would be very surprised if you find a professional who will just reclear it. They will certainly want to sand back, then seal it - I used a 2k epoxy, then base coat and clear. Depending on how perfect you want, there would be a high build primer stage after the sealer. This would then be hand blocked using a guide coat to ensure perfectly flat panels.

In terms of wrapping, you still need a smooth solid surface to put the wrap on, if not you will still see any ridges etc in the paint.

[Tanz]

Here's a wrapped car - think the owner did it himself. Was good but some of the edges on the bonnet air intakes weren't great.

[Alan_M]

Don’t forget, wraps have a lifespan and are also affected by UV.
A top quality wrap will involve removing the bumpers, lights, etc

[KiwiPom]

Here's a wrapped car - think the owner did it himself. Was good but some of the edges on the bonnet air intakes weren't great.

Thanks Tanz, that certainly shows the possibilities , I was thinking of keeping it red tho, i am not sure if they colour match wraps or you just choose out of a std range.

[KiwiPom]

Thanks again Alan, so…
Dry sand (defo not wet)
Repair cracks
2k Epoxy sealer
High build primer (optional) and block
2k or non 2k base (solvent or water based, doesn’t matter)
2k clear (ditto)

I could save some $ if I did the non spraying parts ( if a professional sprayer would let me).

I am still interested in what is available in the way of maintenance and products to preserve what I have currently for a few more years though, albeit if I get it sprayed I would like to have the benefit during my ownership!

Most people would be astonished I am investigating getting it sprayed, it looks brilliant for a 39 year old paint job.