Just been fettling the ply crash panels bought from LB.
So what are folks currently using to 1, waterproof them to try to prevent future rot and 2, using to replace the semi solid putty type stuff that was used to fill in the gap between the edges of the wood and the fibreglass body panels?
Crash panel fitting
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Re: Crash panel fitting
Cant help on the installation. but am interested i the panel fit from LB.
Are they a good template? Can you copy them?
Are they a good template? Can you copy them?
Nothing is fool proof. Fools are clever!
Re: Crash panel fitting
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Last edited by HC180 on Sun Sep 04, 2022 19:45, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Crash panel fitting
What I did:Alan_M wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 17:25Just been fettling the ply crash panels bought from LB.
So what are folks currently using to 1, waterproof them to try to prevent future rot and 2, using to replace the semi solid putty type stuff that was used to fill in the gap between the edges of the wood and the fibreglass body panels?
Screw some pieces of wood to the panels to serve as handles so you can work with them in a sticky state
Paint the panels with 2K epoxy ( for lay-up etc), take care to do the edges properly. Let it cure till most of the tackiness is gone. If you let it cure completely you have to sand it again for a proper bond
Mix a slurry with 2k epoxy and (glass & phenolic) micro balloons, install the panels, let it cure till it goes solid
Cut suitable strips of GF cloth, mix 2k epoxy, paint the strips of GF on a board covered in plastic with the epoxy (brush, squeegee) , transfer them to the car and push them in place with a brush
Remove the handles, and paint over the uncovered area with the reaminder of the epoxy
Use plenty of nitrile gloves, face mask (microballoons!), cover the car against drips , slide your scale in a clear plastic bag etc
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Re: Crash panel fitting
I'll be going with something pretty much like Marten did.
The edges of the boards - where the end-grain of the wood is exposed are the most susceptible to water - the bottom obviously being at most risk. That's the area to seal as best as possible. I will probably apply a layer of light fiberglass over the boards - if you're going to put a layer of epoxy on, you may as well put the fiberglass cloth as well?
To fix the boards in place I will use epoxy and microfibers (along with fumed silica which acts as a thickener) - the epoxy you get should have recipes for different end products - adhesives, fillers etc.. The glass bubbles are more for filling than bonding - the result is a bit softer and easier to sand than when using microfibers. The epoxy adhesive can then be shaped around the edges of the boards to give a curved fillet to hold the panel in place instead of applying fiberglass strips.
The amount of time you have to get the epoxy to stick to itself (a chemical reaction) before having to sand to get a mechanical bond will vary depending on the epoxy - the stuff I'm using gives up to 4 days before sanding is required.
Leaving gaps for water to drain out of the headlight wells, as well as making sure any drain holes are clear will also help keep the rot at bay.
Neil.
The edges of the boards - where the end-grain of the wood is exposed are the most susceptible to water - the bottom obviously being at most risk. That's the area to seal as best as possible. I will probably apply a layer of light fiberglass over the boards - if you're going to put a layer of epoxy on, you may as well put the fiberglass cloth as well?
To fix the boards in place I will use epoxy and microfibers (along with fumed silica which acts as a thickener) - the epoxy you get should have recipes for different end products - adhesives, fillers etc.. The glass bubbles are more for filling than bonding - the result is a bit softer and easier to sand than when using microfibers. The epoxy adhesive can then be shaped around the edges of the boards to give a curved fillet to hold the panel in place instead of applying fiberglass strips.
The amount of time you have to get the epoxy to stick to itself (a chemical reaction) before having to sand to get a mechanical bond will vary depending on the epoxy - the stuff I'm using gives up to 4 days before sanding is required.
Leaving gaps for water to drain out of the headlight wells, as well as making sure any drain holes are clear will also help keep the rot at bay.
Neil.
Re: Crash panel fitting
The crash panels can be made quite easily at home from 12mm marine ply. When LB didnt have any stock I made my own. Ive put up a template/dimensions on my restoration thread on TLF so other people can do that same if wanted.