Hanging Doors!

Body parts, seats, dash, headlining, windows and stuff!

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Zaphod
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Hanging Doors!

Post by Zaphod »

While my dash is out after fixing the bent clutch pedal (Which took less than an afternoon once the dash was out) My next job is to hang the doors correctly and get the gaps something close to even now I have really good access to the nuts holding the top hinge brackets in place. The drivers side one is about 2 mm too far back and the passenger side one about the same distance too far forward (the catch binds when shut as a result). Has anyone got any advice on getting this right? I was gouing to start with just the door beam and catch and build it up from there..
Of all the things I have lost I think I miss my mind the most...

1952 MG TD
1957 MGA 1500
1959 Austin Healey Sprite
1975 MG Midget 1500
1990 Lotus Excel

Pete Boole
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Re: Hanging Doors!

Post by Pete Boole »

Tony D is the man for door-hanging expertise! I'm sure he'll be along shortly :D

Pete

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MetBlue
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Re: Hanging Doors!

Post by MetBlue »

Better late than never. Got here eventually.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11515
Towards the bottom of page 1 in this thread I start some discussion about door beams etc.
Since posting this, I've also changed the door beam on my Excel with some more learning. One day, I might get around to writing a definitive method.
Anyway, in summary, this is how I'd suggest going about hanging door.
  • Away from the car, assembly hinge plates, hinge pin and door beam and shim as needed to remove play ( I don't believe it's too important if shim's go above or below the beam
  • Offer assembly to car and check bolt holes align with bobbins in the body - May be more important for early cars rather than later Excels ?
  • To get all Nylock nuts on the inside, you now need to dismantle, fit top hinge plate, then re-assemble Pin and beam
  • In my experience, use no shims behind the hinge on the top plate and as many shims as you have behind the lower. - Even up to 4 mm might not be too much !!
  • Fit latch mechanism ( B post end), then set beam as far forward as possible with latch just interfering with the bottom of the locking plate ( i.e. Beam sitting slightly high at the B post - It will drop a little as you put all the weight back in the door
  • Now slide the Door shell over, and set the 4 off M6 bolts that secure it to the beam ( 2 at front, 2 at latch - I've always made up the nut plate at the leading edge that I refer to in the linked thread, but not 100 % essential - just removes the need for 3 handed job
  • Now close door - VERY CAREFULLY - Watch particularly the door leading edge doesn't interfere with the front wing rear edge and chip the paint.
  • Now check shut lines front and back of door. It may be necessary to slacken the beam bolts and move whole assembly ( beam and shell) forward or back a little - BUT WATCH THAT LEADING EDGE INTERFERENCE !!!
  • Once happy with vertical shut lines, Adjust the shell until good alignment to adjacent body panels AND YOU HAVE NO INTERFERENCE with the now infamous front edge - On my Elite, I've needed to accept a wide gap at the front / narrow at the door lock in order to avoid a clash here :cry:
  • Time now for the window frame - Start by removing the perfectly fitting and aligned door shell :cry: :cry:
  • Fit the frame to the beam - 5 bolts using no spacers initially. and remove the rubber door seal (optional) so you can measure to the fiberglass aperture lip
  • Measure gap between Window frame and fiberglass and adjust with shims at the 5 bolts until approximately equal - IIRC, gap should be around 18 - 20 mm
      • Now I'd suggest fitting the window glass and motor, and connect to power to ensure the glass drives up and down smoothly - All still without the door shell in place.
      • When you have a consistent gap and a smooth window operation, Dismantle the frame, NOTEING HOW MANY SHIMS AND WHERE
      • Now simply refit the door shell, refit the window frame and prepare to repeat the process a couple of times if you want it really good.
      A good glass of wine and the ability to walk away from it a few times is a good idea. It's a fiddley job, but if you are logical it's not overly difficult and certainly rewarding.

      Good Luck

      Tony
What goes together.... Must come apart.

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Excel SA
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Re: Hanging Doors!

Post by Excel SA »

Nice write up Tony - need to print it out and stick it to my doorframe for future reference!

Neil.

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