First job jobbed - 2 more found !!!

[Pete Boole]

Sounds like all the effort on the front suspension was worth it.

Pete

[Alan_M]

Nice one Tony. I guess that means I’ll have to try harder to keep up with you know along bumpy roads.

[MetBlue]

Work on the rear has started, but two questions to the wise and informed.

Shock lower mounting bolt. I was surprised, but very pleased, that the nylock nut came off easily, and the lower shock eye was free to move off the bolt when I'm ready. Is the bolt captive in the lower link, or is mine seized in, as I didn't need a socket through the tube in the lower link on the bolt head.

Brake back plate (the one with a high propensity to return to nature). I presume you need to disturb the rear wheel bearings to remove it ? I'd like to get it shot blasted and powder coated, but have heard too much about the crush spacer to want to dismantle the hub just for this.

Tony

[richardw]

Work on the rear has started, but two questions to the wise and informed.

Shock lower mounting bolt. I was surprised, but very pleased, that the nylock nut came off easily, and the lower shock eye was free to move off the bolt when I'm ready. Is the bolt captive in the lower link, or is mine seized in, as I didn't need a socket through the tube in the lower link on the bolt head.

Brake back plate (the one with a high propensity to return to nature). I presume you need to disturb the rear wheel bearings to remove it ? I'd like to get it shot blasted and powder coated, but have heard too much about the crush spacer to want to dismantle the hub just for this.

Tony

I think I remember from removing my rear hubs that it all comes apart without disturbing the bearings - that’s right, I removed the hubs and took them to LB who did the bearing repair!

Cheers, Richard

[Alan_M]

Work on the rear has started, but two questions to the wise and

Brake back plate (the one with a high propensity to return to nature). I presume you need to disturb the rear wheel bearings to remove it ? I'd like to get it shot blasted and powder coated, but have heard too much about the crush spacer to want to dismantle the hub just for this.

Tony

I’ll have a look at the spare hubs I’ve got in the garage and report back.

[Pete Boole]

The damper is retained by bolt - it does come out. I think you have to dismantle the hub to remove the brake plate, but it's a decade since I did it so may be wrong . Plus - I gave my perfectly good backplate to Angus before he left and haven't seen it since, so I can't check.

Pete

[MetBlue]

Rear shocks / springs are a whole lot easier to get off than the fronts.
Only off side removed so far, and I can report compression damping is minimal, but rebound is stiff on the old shock. Compared to new LB shock, I'll have more compression damping and less rebound damping when rebuilt. Will be interesting to see what near side is like.
Persuading the disc to come off is proving a challenge for now
Tony

[MetBlue]

Was also surprised how little compression was left in the spring when suspension is on ' full droop'.
Fitted my compressors, wound on a couple of turns, then noticed spring top was already 1/2 " free from the chassis.
I'll check free length with fitted length later.
Tony

[Tanz]

Persuading the disc to come off is proving a challenge for now
Tony

Do you mean rear brake disc? It should come off easily. Silly question - you have got the hand brake off?
Just replaced my callipers and discs. did a damage limitation exercise on the back plate trying to preserve what's left. If the shoes are sticking you can back them off by removing the rubber bung and turning a wheel with a screw driver.
Don't know if any of these pictures are helpful




More here https://imageshack.com/a/IM9W7/1

[Alan_M]

Looking at the spare hubs. You won’t be able to fully remove the back plate without dismantling the hub and bearings. However with disc and handbrake shoes removed you will be able to get to the backplate retaining bolts. Then looking at things you would be able to move the backplate forward about 50mm. This should allow you to access all parts of backplate to clean, de-rust and paint.

[MetBlue]

Progress. Finally got the disc off. It was very tight on the centre location diameter.
Very pleased with the general condition of teh back plate. There's even some original paint still evident


Next job is to reposition the axle stands so I can get the link bar and top arms off.
Where have other supported the car during such work. Until now, the majority of the weight has been on the axles stands you see below. with steadies under the jacking points either side ( just visible in red).


Tony

[richardw]

Tony, I think I used the jacking points when I removed my hubs. You could probably use the diff as well. The spring/damper units stop the suspension dropping too far.

Cheers, Richard

[Alan_M]

I use the bolts under the centre bracket - the ones that allow adjustment of the rear toe with a block of wood between stands. I’ve found it perfectly stable as long as front wheels on the ground.

[MetBlue]

. I use the bolts under the centre bracket

That's the problem Alan. I want to remove the adjuster and cross brace.
Thinking the diff is going to be the support, aided by the side jacking points with stands for stability.

Tony

[Alan_M]

. I use the bolts under the centre bracket

That's the problem Alan. I want to remove the adjuster and cross brace.
Thinking the diff is going to be the support, aided by the side jacking points with stands for stability.

Tony

Ahh!! Got you.

I’ve used the jacking points with axle stands with no problems. Just spread the load with some wood.