door handle replacement

[fairline38]

I need to replace the passenger door handle on my 87 SA. Are there any alternatives?

[amarshall]

Nothing yet. Toyota Celica Supra Mk II 1982-84, fitted upside down.

Rare as hen's teeth and the later type won't work because it pulls in the wrong direction.

Best bet is to repair yours, or get a repaired one from the usual suspects, and check the latch mechanism and rods for alignment so that you don't have to pull hard to open the door.

[fairline38]

Thanks for that info.

I actually broke the handle loose trying to open the door over the winter when it was iced up.

I am pretty sure it is repairable as the screw nuts came out of the plastic handle and very little damage was done to the plastic holes.

[amarshall]

Thanks for that info.

I actually broke the handle loose trying to open the door over the winter when it was iced up.

I am pretty sure it is repairable as the screw nuts came out of the plastic handle and very little damage was done to the plastic holes.

That's the normal failure mode. The short metal inserts break free from the brittle plastic.

These days, I try to pop the door open with the handle and then open it by using the top of the window frame.

[Phantasm]

No connection to the seller, but a matched pair seem to be for sale stateside. You can 'make an offer'.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Toyota-Ce ... SwVYtbumRp

[TrevorK]

I and a friend repaired my passenger door handle yesterday.

The insert for the rear screw had broken out of the plastic.



I think that, as you pull the handle, it tries to pivot around the front of the handle so the insert leans against the front of the boss as well as being pulled out of it. Anyway, the hole the boss sits in is 17.3mm deep or so which is much deeper than the boss.



So we made a new insert 9mm diameter by 17.3mm long and drilled and tapped it to take a 6mm thread. To give it more support, we welded a tag to it that would go across to the screw that holds the lock barrel. This was 2.7mm from the top of the new insert. We put in a clearance hole so we could refit the screw.



Before we fitted it, we applied some Loctite HY4070 glue to the inside of the boss and outside of the insert.

You may have spotted our error which I noticed as we glued it in. The tab stops the lock barrel assemblt being removed. I would have to Dremel through the tab to do so. What we should have done is make a shorter, threaded insert to go in the bottom of the boss and another with a M6 clearance hole to weld the tab to and fit in the top as a spacer and then used a longer screw. Anyway, I will cross that bridge when I come to it. In the meantime, the handle feels nice and firmly fixed to the door.

[Atking53]

I had this same problem but decided to epoxy resin the knurled stub back into the broken plastic, but also cut a ring of about 6 mm from a tightly fitting plastic tube and epoxied that over the broken plastic. Forgot to photograph it until it was re-installed. But it seems to work.

[Atking53]

I had this same problem but decided to epoxy resin the knurled stub back into the broken plastic, but also cut a ring of about 6 mm from a tightly fitting plastic tube and epoxied that over the broken plastic. Forgot to photograph it until it was re-installed. But it seems to work.