New Elite owner from Sweden!

[lahi]

I'll say!! Excellent!

It's the M62 supercharger - it will be air-to-water intercooled (chargecooled) as well, keeping the air path as short as possible, and drive-by-wire. Probably using a Link ECU.

Pete

Ah, nice. Chargecooler is the way to go if you have the space for it. Need to tuck in the radiator somewhere too. And also header tank and a pump. I use a Pierburg CWA200 in the Elise and also a control for it as it take about 15A on full power I can crank it up when I'm on trackdays. Not sure about the output of the Elite alternator but you can always get an alternator with higher output.

Will be nice to see the build as it progress!

[lahi]

Welcome Lahi! Good to have another professional engine designer in the group, and on something so exotic. That's my business too, I design engines for Mercedes AMG HPP - that is the Mercedes Formula 1 division. Somehow I've resisted the temptation to improve the engine in my Excel SE, other than a full strip and rebuild 5 years ago. Part due to wanting to keep it practical as an everyday car, which is how I use it, and part because I didn't have the money!

Thank you very much
Ooo, that's impressive. But I think the F1 engines are a bit more exotic "My" engines are road car stuff. High power ones of course, but still road cars. The 1600 hp (on E85) Jesko, but that's on 5 liters and 2 bar of boost. And also the Gemera engine which is 2 liter 3 cylinder and 600 hp when running E85. Those engines are mass production when compared to F1 300 Gemeras, 125 Jesko, 70 CC850 (same base engine as Jesko) and then a few for the coming model.

Good decision about your Excel. Original is always original as when the cars are getting older (and me too...) I think the originality will be preferred after some time. That's why I make my Europa completely standard.

[rbgosling]

Well, that Jesko engine makes more power than our F1 engine, even if it is somewhat bigger! And making engines for the road adds a LOT of complications that we don't need to worry about on the track - emissions, noise, being able to start the engine without pre-warming it and nursed by a group of engineers with a laptop, making it last more than 10,000 km, for a start. As we found out when we had to adapt our F1 engine to go into the Mercedes AMG One road car - but we did it! As just proven by breaking the Nurburgring production car record, by 8 seconds, on a cold and damp day.

See this YouTube video, it's quite impressive!

[lahi]

Well, that Jesko engine makes more power than our F1 engine, even if it is somewhat bigger! And making engines for the road adds a LOT of complications that we don't need to worry about on the track - emissions, noise, being able to start the engine without pre-warming it and nursed by a group of engineers with a laptop, making it last more than 10,000 km, for a start. As we found out when we had to adapt our F1 engine to go into the Mercedes AMG One road car - but we did it! As just proven by breaking the Nurburgring production car record, by 8 seconds, on a cold and damp day.

See this YouTube video, it's quite impressive!

The emissions is a pain but needs to be done. All this added cost, time, frustration But we have good people handling those applications and to date we have succeeded somehow.
I have seen that record video already. That kind of clips spread quick in this business. Very impressive! Must have been quite some work and a lot of thinking to adapt that engine for road use. I guess the customers don't want to sit at 5000 rpm at the stop lights Wonder when Koenigsegg will go to Nurburgring with the Jesko

[lahi]

Managed to get hold of a window frame and side window. Will finish the installation this weekend
Just water pump and the fiberglass damage to take care of. Might be done before christmas

[Pete Boole]

I'll say!! Excellent!

It's the M62 supercharger - it will be air-to-water intercooled (chargecooled) as well, keeping the air path as short as possible, and drive-by-wire. Probably using a Link ECU.

Pete

Ah, nice. Chargecooler is the way to go if you have the space for it. Need to tuck in the radiator somewhere too. And also header tank and a pump. I use a Pierburg CWA200 in the Elise and also a control for it as it take about 15A on full power I can crank it up when I'm on trackdays. Not sure about the output of the Elite alternator but you can always get an alternator with higher output.

Will be nice to see the build as it progress!

The Elite alternator is about 60A, but I've changed the pulleys on my engine to poly-v belt and I've fitted a 165A alternator from a Mini - should be enough!

Pete

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Managed to get hold of a window frame and side window. Will finish the installation this weekend
Just water pump and the fiberglass damage to take care of. Might be done before christmas

You may want to keep the std water pump for originality. But just in case you don't (because water pump seal failures on 900 series engines is commonly caused by lack of use)... I converted my cooling system to run on a Davies Craig EWP80 in 2004 (18 years ago) and have had no issues with the cooling system since. Especially so since converting to waterless coolant 5 or so years ago. The system runs at zero pressure (plain header tank cap). There has been zero coolant loss and the system doesn't suffer through lack of use. The EWP80 runs with a controller, plus a FULL SPEED controller override switch (double pole) under the dash just in case. Lots of benefits over the std system, and I'd never consider returning to std. Since 2004 my Clan (Imp race engine) cooling system has also run with an EWP80 plus waterless coolant (5 years) too.

[lahi]

The Elite alternator is about 60A, but I've changed the pulleys on my engine to poly-v belt and I've fitted a 165A alternator from a Mini - should be enough!

Pete

I agree, 165A should be enough If it's not then there's something wrong

[lahi]

You may want to keep the std water pump for originality. But just in case you don't (because water pump seal failures on 900 series engines is commonly caused by lack of use)... I converted my cooling system to run on a Davies Craig EWP80 in 2004 (18 years ago) and have had no issues with the cooling system since. Especially so since converting to waterless coolant 5 or so years ago. The system runs at zero pressure (plain header tank cap). There has been zero coolant loss and the system doesn't suffer through lack of use. The EWP80 runs with a controller, plus a FULL SPEED controller override switch (double pole) under the dash just in case. Lots of benefits over the std system, and I'd never consider returning to std. Since 2004 my Clan (Imp race engine) cooling system has also run with an EWP80 plus waterless coolant (5 years) too.

The Davies Craig pumps are good stuff. I use a Davies Craig EWP115 with controller in my Elise for the ICE cooling circuit and Pierburg CWA200 for the chargecooler circuit and that works very well. But for the Elite I will keep the standard water pump. It's on its way off right now. Just need to get the power steering pump bracket out of the way to be able to pull the water pump off. One of the water pump bolt heads sheared off so I can't rotate the pump housing to clear that bracket. So it has to come off. Three bolt in the front and two nuts under the engine. Managed to get one of the nuts off but the other one is further in so I need to lift the car to reach it. Will try this evening.
Thanks for the tip

[DavidOliver]

Lahi, with the water pump off check the block casting for burrs, you can easily improve water flow with a bit of streamlining.
Burrs were typical on the Elite engine.

Dave the cog

[lahi]

Lahi, with the water pump off check the block casting for burrs, you can easily improve water flow with a bit of streamlining.
Burrs were typical on the Elite engine.

Dave the cog

Thanks, I will have a look!

Is that a common Elite issue with noticable difference when streamlined?

EDIT: Just made a search in the forum and I see what you mean.

[lahi]

The water pump stuff might have taken a turn.

Ordered the repair kit from a UK company 5 weeks ago and not received it yet. It's not even shipped. It's in stock and paid 5 weeks ago. And they have stopped replying too. As I need a solution soon I might go for a Davies Craig instead unless I can get the repair kit from somewhere else very soon. We will see... Hope for a refund for my purchase with them.

The body repair is getting along nicely. Soon time for paint.

Before:




After:



As the car had fallen off a lift and landed on it's nose it was also broken in the front but that's also repaired now. The indicators on both sides were completely broken too but as the Lucas L811 lights are so expensive, at least 70 gbp plus VAT each and then shipping and customs fee when delivered to me in Sweden (so likely around 200 gbp delivered), I decided to look on Ebay. Found indicators quite similar and very similar size too. 80s Suzuki Samurai, about 13 gbp in total including shipping from India

New and old:

[Pete Boole]

Wow - the front lights look like a great find! Let us know how they fit - mine are in poor condition as well. Good work on the fibreglass

Pete

[Lotus-e-Clan]

If you do go for the DC EWP, consider using the 80. A forum member (Keiren) reckoned the EWP115 he used his on his new 2.5 litre tuned 912 engine, combined with an upgraded alloy radiator, resulted in thermal shock to the block/ liners. The ewp115 flowing a sudden large shot of cold water from the rad. That said, the devil is in the detail regarding programming used to control flow.
And in any case, I found the ewp80 run either with, or without, a controller (analogue), is well up to the job on the 912 SE. And it pulls only 7amps max rather than 10A, which means the sTD alternator easily copes with the load. Plus I've run the ewp80 with an upgraded alloy rad and the STD brass/copper cored rad with no ill effects. The later digital controller programming is superior to my analogue version so pretty sure you won't have issues with the ewp80.
Anyhow you have more experience than most so I expect you'll know how to set it up right regardless of EWP size .

[lahi]

Wow - the front lights look like a great find! Let us know how they fit - mine are in poor condition as well. Good work on the fibreglass

Pete

I'm quite pleased with my find The outer dimensions are almost spot on as well. They don't really fit where the back goes through the holes in the back of the bumper (where the cables goes through) so I need to do a bracket for them in the back. However, they are thinner compared to the original so I think the "front face" will be in the same position as the original when I use brackets in the back.